Isar Ideal intermittent warm water leak

[MellyBee76]

I've just noticed water dripping out of my loft

Went up to invesitage and it appears to be coming from inside of the boiler. It fires up - I still have hot water and heating - but when it goes to "0" it drops about half a cupful of warm water from inside (it runs down the pipe that goes inside the boiler). It only has 0.5 bar of pressure and when I try and top it up, nothing happens. You can't hear the "flow" of pressure into the system.

Any ideas?? - ultra stressed, skint single mum so anything you can suggest will help

Thank you Mel x

 

[MellyBee76]

Had an engineer out today who's said it'll be £240 (incl. parts, labour and VAT) to replace the heating plate seals as that's what it looks like

 

[Ray84]

i noticed your post lastnight but didnt want to reply as there was that many causes.
Its very common for those seals to be faulty but its only usually a problem if the preheat isnt turned on or the boilers left to cool down.

I assume the price quoted is to replace the heat plate and o-rings but not 100% convinced you'd need a new heat plate maybe the seals are just worn due to poor water quality? but hopefully your RGI is genuine and has done a full diagnosis

Ray

 

[markymark1234567]

Hi mel,
plates on ebay are about £40-£50 they come with the washers you need.
Unfortunatly I don't think you can buy the washers without the plate.
But I think the price he has quoted is far too steep.

 

[markymark1234567]

I can supply the washers if requested as I change Isar plate to plates on a regular basis

 

[MellyBee76]

Hi Guys

I've not been back on since the other night - he said the price is for the seals only - £145. He said it might be the heat plate but he won't know until he's got into it - apparently, because of the way it's manufactured, it's a 2-3 hour job to strip it all down but he thinks it's the heat plate seals but won't know until he's taken it apart.

The leak has got worse - it was just warmish water from one place but now it's a trick of fairly hot water from 2-3 different places - running constantly through loft hatch

I've given up somewhat and turned water off at main stop cock and electric to the boiler. Apparently, there is somewhere I can isolate the supply just to the boiler but don't really want to touch anything without being 100% sure. I know where the value is to put pressure in - just a twist with a flat head screw driver - is the isolater the one to the right on it? That is also set to "off" though - ie. both the heads are set to vertical. With three little ones, I don't mind heating up the water on stove if I can just isolate supply to boiler. The engineer's not coming back until Wednesday so really need to try and dry the place up a bit - it's gone from a couple of drips through loft hatch to nine various leaks through loft hatch - using four towels every 1.5hrs !!! :O :O :O

Mel xxx

 

[markymark1234567]

As you look at the boiler the second last valve on the right hand side is the mains water to the boiler. (Running parellel with the other 4 not the filling loop valves)
If you turn this off and turn the hot taps on you should find no water comes out of them.
Then turn your main stop tap on (so you can have atleast cold water) does the boiler start leaking again.
If it does not then you know it is leaking on the inlet/outlet of the boiler.
Chances are it is the plate seals they take 25mins to change so I think he's have your eyes out at the price he has quoted.
Any further advice please ask.

 

[Ray84]

As you look at the boiler the second last valve on the right hand side is the mains water to the boiler. (Running parellel with the other 4 not the filling loop valves)
If you turn this off and turn the hot taps on you should find no water comes out of them.
Then turn your main stop tap on (so you can have atleast cold water) does the boiler start leaking again.
If it does not then you know it is leaking on the inlet/outlet of the boiler.
Chances are it is the plate seals they take 25mins to change so I think he's have your eyes out at the price he has quoted.
Any further advice please ask.

agreed if its anything to do with your hot water and your systems pressures not going down your def paying over the odds for the repair as it can easily be done within an hour (thats generous)

 

[Cal10]

You can get the plate heat exchanger o-rings without the heat exchanger. They come in the hydroblock seal kit: ideal part number 171031. Should be less than £10.

 

[miggy]

Quite right come as hydro block seal kit. All they are are 4 rubber seals. Boiler in loft relatively easy job. Got one to do Saturday morning. £240 wow. Think i may consider becoming a private engineer. Not a difficult job and chances of the plate having failed are pretty low. Never had to change a plate exchanger just the seals and have done plenty.