Isolators for Imm. Heater

[--tom]

Will this fly: 16A mcb in CU,2.5 T&E to a 20A Isolator in the kitchen, 2.5 T&E to Timer/programmer in the kitchen then 2.5 to a 20A Isolator in the airing cupboard, then 20A HR flex to Imm Heater.?
Is the first isolator in the kitchen necessary?

 

[Lectrician]

Sounds OK, why not timer adjacent to the immersion??

 

[kai]

The best isolator for the Immersion Heater is MK K330 WHI, fuse connection unit, sold by Screwfix etc.

Put a 13amp fuse into it, and run the flex from it's integral flex outlet.

 

[securespark]

Assuming the imm htr is no more than 13A. Some of the older ones are more.

Switched spurs are generally sold with 13A fuse already.

Local isolators (whether up or downstairs) are very handy for local DP isolation, and (if you leave the upstairs one on) you can switch on/off from the kitchen.

I would have an iso up & down, too.

 

[--tom]

Thank you all for your replies.
Kai, are you recommending to put the MK k330 FCU as an isolater at both the kitchen and airing cupboard locations?
The timer is positioned in the kitchen simply for convenience/preference.

 

[kai]

Only the Immersion Heater Cupboard needs a MK-K330WHI 13amp fuse connection unit, the kitchen can do with a 20amp double pole switch (possibly marked water heater) next to the timer.

 

[--tom]

Thank you once again.