Issues with our electricity.

[Gaogier]

Hello

so, we long term rent via social housing, and have been here for 25+ years now.

I was 9 when moved in, and my mum raised issues regarding the electric here.

first main issue we have faced since day one, our electricity main rcd fuse board is right on top of the main gas pipe coming into the house.

our house isn’t the best in electrical wiring, and it is a nightmare to get the house people to send out an electrician.

we have problems no electrician can work out, example, we had a door bell, installed wireless some 24 years ago by the housing, except when you flush any toilet in the house the door bell would chime, after a while, we went with a brand new wired door bell, but this made the issue worse, if you flushed, turned a tap on, close the back door or window, in the end we didn’t have a door bell. Now days we have gone back to a wire doorbell, it still rings randomly.

8 years ago, this is a complete guess, we had our bathroom converted into a wet room/shower as I was wheelchair bound and the people were cowboys, but they changed our bathroom lights, however randomly when you turned the bathroom lights off, my room and what was then a study room lights would flash. The housing were not fused about this issue, so 6-7 years ago maybe longer, my mum installed ceiling fans throughout the house, but the lights would still flicker.

I am useless at turning things on and off, so I got a smart light switch not requiring the 3rd cable, so no neutral required, lights still flicker, but I think it was last year, maybe 2 years ago, a guy came around and did an electrical inspection, first we have had since we moved in, the guy didn’t really know what he was doing to be honest, but we passed, I ask him regarding my lights flickering, he had a look at my smart switch, but he broke the back metal box the switch goes in, then as he tried to get the box into my wall, he broke my light.

we had a new guy come out weeks later, who said that it was my switch and it had to be binned, but as he got out the switch from the wall, the first guy broke the wires slicing the completely as if they were snipped off. He said due to this, we need to rewire my light and booked for some else to do it has he wouldn’t get into the loft, but he pulled on what wire was left, but pulled the wire about 6 inches above the switch resulting in the wall and the plaster to blow. I have to make a finger plate around 4 inches wide to hide the damage.

so, weeks later a new guy comes out, and goes up into the loft and says there is 1 clip up here, holding back some 1ft of extra cable, if the guy just popped his head into the loft he would be able to see and fix it, it took the guy 5 minutes max. He asked why all of this happened, and asked if could fix the flickering, so he sees the problem, my niece room next to mine flashes maybe 1 in 300 times the bathroom light is turned off, but my room (only room in the house) has a smart switch, they put a regular switch up, the problem still exists, my mum put the lights up with a Royal Navy engineer, so we knew this wasn’t the problem but they checked it all out. After about 2 hours of him being here at 8:30am, so called his friend who was also an electrician about 10;30 and both these guys were contractors, but by about 2pm, they called a couple more people out, my and my mum’s wiring was perfect, but they tested every possible solution or cause. I think there were 5 guys trying to fix the problem, then one asked how long has these problems been happening, and we worked out it was the same time as they installed the shower and bathroom lights.

By 6-7pm, they think they found the issue they had to put in new wire from the rcd fuse board, and run the shower using the new wire. This still didn’t fix this problem but they did fix a fire hazard that should have never happened if the bathroom installers were qualified electricians which was a very obvious problem. They then went to wire the new cable into the bathroom lights, and found the lights they installed were not suitable for bathrooms, the installers incorrectly wired up, broke bits on it, so, they replaced the lights in the bathroom and bingo, my bedroom lights have not flickered once.


this housing people are awful, when I sleep, I have to be hooked up to equipments that require electricity, anyway, a plug socket for our hob broke, it wouldn’t switch off physically, and it blew the fuse, we called the housing people who we explained that I need electricity at night, let alone food waste, we asked for a emergency call out, but they refused, and was told that we should get a extension lead, connect that to the rcd/fuse board and that way I could have power to my room so I can sleep.


my amazing mum had to take the socket off the wall, disconnect it, wire some thing else to it, so we could have power but that power had live wires which we blocked off, as we can’t go changing anything in the rcd fuse board.

so, please remember all of this,

I am installing some wire to go to my little work shop, but I didn’t realise the power from the kitchen is a plug with a switch which I was going to hard wire into, but now thinking of using a standard 3 pin uk plug to connect and disconnect, otherwise it would mean having the electrician to install a new wire, sockets etc. if I can use armoured cable in a regular plug then it would save a lot of hassle, is this a no no thing to do? Isn’t the armoured cable just a normal cable inside with protective sleeving?

for my shed I plan on installing 2 double metal clad sockets hopefully with usb-c power too, or 2 regular metal clad sockets with a single usb-c only ports single plug? Where would the best place to order these sockets?


is there some sort of law regarding how close the main gas supply to the rcd fuse board can be? They are almost onto of each other, in a closed cupboard.

sorry for some backstory here, just wanting to get across how bad the electricians are working with this organisation, as the good electricians left as they were getting a wage cut, with more work. So if this is something I can do, or my mum who knows about this sort of thing as she was a school site manager/caretaker/janitor/maintenance manage.

 

[ericmark]

Scanning through, likely some poor connections for original faults, I have seen populated consumer units with loose screws.

As to smart switches, three types, ones needing neutral, ones which pass a small current through bulb, so must be bulbs designed to dim, and those with batteries to work electronics. To reduce power used when off, many require a hub. And also often large back boxes for back of switch.

But in rental property these would need fitting by landlord or his agent, so smart bulbs would be normal way to go.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Hello

so, we long term rent via social housing, and have been here for 25+ years now.

I was 9 when moved in, and my mum raised issues regarding the electric here.

first main issue we have faced since day one, our electricity main rcd fuse board is right on top of the main gas pipe coming into the house.

our house isn’t the best in electrical wiring, and it is a nightmare to get the house people to send out an electrician.

we have problems no electrician can work out, example, we had a door bell, installed wireless some 24 years ago by the housing, except when you flush any toilet in the house the door bell would chime, after a while, we went with a brand new wired door bell, but this made the issue worse, if you flushed, turned a tap on, close the back door or window, in the end we didn’t have a door bell. Now days we have gone back to a wire doorbell, it still rings randomly.

8 years ago, this is a complete guess, we had our bathroom converted into a wet room/shower as I was wheelchair bound and the people were cowboys, but they changed our bathroom lights, however randomly when you turned the bathroom lights off, my room and what was then a study room lights would flash. The housing were not fused about this issue, so 6-7 years ago maybe longer, my mum installed ceiling fans throughout the house, but the lights would still flicker.

I am useless at turning things on and off, so I got a smart light switch not requiring the 3rd cable, so no neutral required, lights still flicker, but I think it was last year, maybe 2 years ago, a guy came around and did an electrical inspection, first we have had since we moved in, the guy didn’t really know what he was doing to be honest, but we passed, I ask him regarding my lights flickering, he had a look at my smart switch, but he broke the back metal box the switch goes in, then as he tried to get the box into my wall, he broke my light.

we had a new guy come out weeks later, who said that it was my switch and it had to be binned, but as he got out the switch from the wall, the first guy broke the wires slicing the completely as if they were snipped off. He said due to this, we need to rewire my light and booked for some else to do it has he wouldn’t get into the loft, but he pulled on what wire was left, but pulled the wire about 6 inches above the switch resulting in the wall and the plaster to blow. I have to make a finger plate around 4 inches wide to hide the damage.

so, weeks later a new guy comes out, and goes up into the loft and says there is 1 clip up here, holding back some 1ft of extra cable, if the guy just popped his head into the loft he would be able to see and fix it, it took the guy 5 minutes max. He asked why all of this happened, and asked if could fix the flickering, so he sees the problem, my niece room next to mine flashes maybe 1 in 300 times the bathroom light is turned off, but my room (only room in the house) has a smart switch, they put a regular switch up, the problem still exists, my mum put the lights up with a Royal Navy engineer, so we knew this wasn’t the problem but they checked it all out. After about 2 hours of him being here at 8:30am, so called his friend who was also an electrician about 10;30 and both these guys were contractors, but by about 2pm, they called a couple more people out, my and my mum’s wiring was perfect, but they tested every possible solution or cause. I think there were 5 guys trying to fix the problem, then one asked how long has these problems been happening, and we worked out it was the same time as they installed the shower and bathroom lights.

By 6-7pm, they think they found the issue they had to put in new wire from the rcd fuse board, and run the shower using the new wire. This still didn’t fix this problem but they did fix a fire hazard that should have never happened if the bathroom installers were qualified electricians which was a very obvious problem. They then went to wire the new cable into the bathroom lights, and found the lights they installed were not suitable for bathrooms, the installers incorrectly wired up, broke bits on it, so, they replaced the lights in the bathroom and bingo, my bedroom lights have not flickered once.


this housing people are awful, when I sleep, I have to be hooked up to equipments that require electricity, anyway, a plug socket for our hob broke, it wouldn’t switch off physically, and it blew the fuse, we called the housing people who we explained that I need electricity at night, let alone food waste, we asked for a emergency call out, but they refused, and was told that we should get a extension lead, connect that to the rcd/fuse board and that way I could have power to my room so I can sleep.


my amazing mum had to take the socket off the wall, disconnect it, wire some thing else to it, so we could have power but that power had live wires which we blocked off, as we can’t go changing anything in the rcd fuse board.

so, please remember all of this,

I am installing some wire to go to my little work shop, but I didn’t realise the power from the kitchen is a plug with a switch which I was going to hard wire into, but now thinking of using a standard 3 pin uk plug to connect and disconnect, otherwise it would mean having the electrician to install a new wire, sockets etc. if I can use armoured cable in a regular plug then it would save a lot of hassle, is this a no no thing to do? Isn’t the armoured cable just a normal cable inside with protective sleeving?

for my shed I plan on installing 2 double metal clad sockets hopefully with usb-c power too, or 2 regular metal clad sockets with a single usb-c only ports single plug? Where would the best place to order these sockets?


is there some sort of law regarding how close the main gas supply to the rcd fuse board can be? They are almost onto of each other, in a closed cupboard.

sorry for some backstory here, just wanting to get across how bad the electricians are working with this organisation, as the good electricians left as they were getting a wage cut, with more work. So if this is something I can do, or my mum who knows about this sort of thing as she was a school site manager/caretaker/janitor/maintenance manage.

(Sorry)
TLDR

 

[EFLImpudence]

#Me Too

 

[Murdochcat]

If in doubt - don't

 

[bernardgreen]

deleted

 

[SUNRAY]

Hello

so, we long term rent via social housing, and have been here for 25+ years now.

I was 9 when moved in, and my mum raised issues regarding the electric here.

first main issue we have faced since day one, our electricity main rcd fuse board is right on top of the main gas pipe coming into the house.

our house isn’t the best in electrical wiring, and it is a nightmare to get the house people to send out an electrician.

we have problems no electrician can work out, example, we had a door bell, installed wireless some 24 years ago by the housing, except when you flush any toilet in the house the door bell would chime, after a while, we went with a brand new wired door bell, but this made the issue worse, if you flushed, turned a tap on, close the back door or window, in the end we didn’t have a door bell. Now days we have gone back to a wire doorbell, it still rings randomly.

8 years ago, this is a complete guess, we had our bathroom converted into a wet room/shower as I was wheelchair bound and the people were cowboys, but they changed our bathroom lights, however randomly when you turned the bathroom lights off, my room and what was then a study room lights would flash. The housing were not fused about this issue, so 6-7 years ago maybe longer, my mum installed ceiling fans throughout the house, but the lights would still flicker.

I am useless at turning things on and off, so I got a smart light switch not requiring the 3rd cable, so no neutral required, lights still flicker, but I think it was last year, maybe 2 years ago, a guy came around and did an electrical inspection, first we have had since we moved in, the guy didn’t really know what he was doing to be honest, but we passed, I ask him regarding my lights flickering, he had a look at my smart switch, but he broke the back metal box the switch goes in, then as he tried to get the box into my wall, he broke my light.

we had a new guy come out weeks later, who said that it was my switch and it had to be binned, but as he got out the switch from the wall, the first guy broke the wires slicing the completely as if they were snipped off. He said due to this, we need to rewire my light and booked for some else to do it has he wouldn’t get into the loft, but he pulled on what wire was left, but pulled the wire about 6 inches above the switch resulting in the wall and the plaster to blow. I have to make a finger plate around 4 inches wide to hide the damage.

so, weeks later a new guy comes out, and goes up into the loft and says there is 1 clip up here, holding back some 1ft of extra cable, if the guy just popped his head into the loft he would be able to see and fix it, it took the guy 5 minutes max. He asked why all of this happened, and asked if could fix the flickering, so he sees the problem, my niece room next to mine flashes maybe 1 in 300 times the bathroom light is turned off, but my room (only room in the house) has a smart switch, they put a regular switch up, the problem still exists, my mum put the lights up with a Royal Navy engineer, so we knew this wasn’t the problem but they checked it all out. After about 2 hours of him being here at 8:30am, so called his friend who was also an electrician about 10;30 and both these guys were contractors, but by about 2pm, they called a couple more people out, my and my mum’s wiring was perfect, but they tested every possible solution or cause. I think there were 5 guys trying to fix the problem, then one asked how long has these problems been happening, and we worked out it was the same time as they installed the shower and bathroom lights.

By 6-7pm, they think they found the issue they had to put in new wire from the rcd fuse board, and run the shower using the new wire. This still didn’t fix this problem but they did fix a fire hazard that should have never happened if the bathroom installers were qualified electricians which was a very obvious problem. They then went to wire the new cable into the bathroom lights, and found the lights they installed were not suitable for bathrooms, the installers incorrectly wired up, broke bits on it, so, they replaced the lights in the bathroom and bingo, my bedroom lights have not flickered once.


this housing people are awful, when I sleep, I have to be hooked up to equipments that require electricity, anyway, a plug socket for our hob broke, it wouldn’t switch off physically, and it blew the fuse, we called the housing people who we explained that I need electricity at night, let alone food waste, we asked for a emergency call out, but they refused, and was told that we should get a extension lead, connect that to the rcd/fuse board and that way I could have power to my room so I can sleep.


my amazing mum had to take the socket off the wall, disconnect it, wire some thing else to it, so we could have power but that power had live wires which we blocked off, as we can’t go changing anything in the rcd fuse board.

so, please remember all of this,

I am installing some wire to go to my little work shop, but I didn’t realise the power from the kitchen is a plug with a switch which I was going to hard wire into, but now thinking of using a standard 3 pin uk plug to connect and disconnect, otherwise it would mean having the electrician to install a new wire, sockets etc. if I can use armoured cable in a regular plug then it would save a lot of hassle, is this a no no thing to do? Isn’t the armoured cable just a normal cable inside with protective sleeving?

for my shed I plan on installing 2 double metal clad sockets hopefully with usb-c power too, or 2 regular metal clad sockets with a single usb-c only ports single plug? Where would the best place to order these sockets?


is there some sort of law regarding how close the main gas supply to the rcd fuse board can be? They are almost onto of each other, in a closed cupboard.

sorry for some backstory here, just wanting to get across how bad the electricians are working with this organisation, as the good electricians left as they were getting a wage cut, with more work. So if this is something I can do, or my mum who knows about this sort of thing as she was a school site manager/caretaker/janitor/maintenance manage.

As a landlord myself I would never have let it get to this stage and it infuriates me that other landlords do. These problems should have been properly investigated as they arise.
However lights flickering when another is switched off has become a (non)issue with LEDs, I have one here at home, when I switch off one of my kitchen fluorescent lights the hall may flash and it may appear to be full brightness but that is not a fault or a hazard. If that is what you experience, one or more of the electricians should have been able to explain it after inspection.

As an electrician (disclaimer; not qualified but work as self employed subby to several electrical companies) I have worked on a number of 'unauthorised alterations' in rental properties, some of which I've posted on this site

 

[ericmark]

Hello

so, we long term rent via social housing, and have been here for 25+ years now.

I was 9 when moved in, and my mum raised issues regarding the electric here.

first main issue we have faced since day one, our electricity main rcd fuse board is right on top of the main gas pipe coming into the house.

our house isn’t the best in electrical wiring, and it is a nightmare to get the house people to send out an electrician.

I see no real problem with the electrics and gas being close electric wise, there may be gas regulations but nothing electric wise.

we have problems no electrician can work out, example, we had a door bell, installed wireless some 24 years ago by the housing, except when you flush any toilet in the house the door bell would chime, after a while, we went with a brand new wired door bell, but this made the issue worse, if you flushed, turned a tap on, close the back door or window, in the end we didn’t have a door bell. Now days we have gone back to a wire doorbell, it still rings randomly.

I see no reason for this, unless turning power off/on will make it ring, but it would need meters to work out what was wrong, so can't help on a forum.

8 years ago, this is a complete guess, we had our bathroom converted into a wet room/shower as I was wheelchair bound and the people were cowboys, but they changed our bathroom lights, however randomly when you turned the bathroom lights off, my room and what was then a study room lights would flash. The housing were not fused about this issue, so 6-7 years ago maybe longer, my mum installed ceiling fans throughout the house, but the lights would still flicker.

I had lights flicker it was a terminal not tightened down on the wire, a light tug found the fault, but did need to test quite a few ceiling roses before faulty one found.

I am useless at turning things on and off, so I got a smart light switch not requiring the 3rd cable, so no neutral required, lights still flicker, but I think it was last year, maybe 2 years ago, a guy came around and did an electrical inspection, first we have had since we moved in, the guy didn’t really know what he was doing to be honest, but we passed, I ask him regarding my lights flickering, he had a look at my smart switch, but he broke the back metal box the switch goes in, then as he tried to get the box into my wall, he broke my light.

I have found neutral less smart switches a problem due to size of switch so needs bigger back box or a spacier, the main problem is loss of power means they turn off, where with smart bulbs loss of power means they turn on, however the TP-Link (Tapo) switch has batteries, so does not change state with loss of power, found these to date far better.

we had a new guy come out weeks later, who said that it was my switch and it had to be binned, but as he got out the switch from the wall, the first guy broke the wires slicing the completely as if they were snipped off. He said due to this, we need to rewire my light and booked for some else to do it has he wouldn’t get into the loft, but he pulled on what wire was left, but pulled the wire about 6 inches above the switch resulting in the wall and the plaster to blow. I have to make a finger plate around 4 inches wide to hide the damage.

Why report this, nothing a forum can suggest to help, just makes the report so long no one wants to read it.

so, weeks later a new guy comes out, and goes up into the loft and says there is 1 clip up here, holding back some 1ft of extra cable, if the guy just popped his head into the loft he would be able to see and fix it, it took the guy 5 minutes max. He asked why all of this happened, and asked if could fix the flickering, so he sees the problem, my niece room next to mine flashes maybe 1 in 300 times the bathroom light is turned off, but my room (only room in the house) has a smart switch, they put a regular switch up, the problem still exists, my mum put the lights up with a Royal Navy engineer, so we knew this wasn’t the problem but they checked it all out. After about 2 hours of him being here at 8:30am, so called his friend who was also an electrician about 10;30 and both these guys were contractors, but by about 2pm, they called a couple more people out, my and my mum’s wiring was perfect, but they tested every possible solution or cause. I think there were 5 guys trying to fix the problem, then one asked how long has these problems been happening, and we worked out it was the same time as they installed the shower and bathroom lights.

Again unnecessary long waffle, am pointing this out, as it is likely the reason for so few replies.

By 6-7pm, they think they found the issue they had to put in new wire from the rcd fuse board, and run the shower using the new wire. This still didn’t fix this problem but they did fix a fire hazard that should have never happened if the bathroom installers were qualified electricians which was a very obvious problem. They then went to wire the new cable into the bathroom lights, and found the lights they installed were not suitable for bathrooms, the installers incorrectly wired up, broke bits on it, so, they replaced the lights in the bathroom and bingo, my bedroom lights have not flickered once.

So cured, why report it?

this housing people are awful, when I sleep, I have to be hooked up to equipments that require electricity, anyway, a plug socket for our hob broke, it wouldn’t switch off physically, and it blew the fuse, we called the housing people who we explained that I need electricity at night, let alone food waste, we asked for a emergency call out, but they refused, and was told that we should get a extension lead, connect that to the rcd/fuse board and that way I could have power to my room so I can sleep.

That is clearly out of order, however I found with my mother we had to register with people to get emergency service. I know loss of power would automaticly send message to call centre, and they would call out social services if we did not answer the phone. The complaint needs to go to social services, not a forum.

my amazing mum had to take the socket off the wall, disconnect it, wire some thing else to it, so we could have power but that power had live wires which we blocked off, as we can’t go changing anything in the rcd fuse board.

so, please remember all of this,

This is hard to comment on, clearly your Mum is looking after you, but it should have been done by care and repair, and the whole thing then would have been logged, and if required a court case could have resulted, because your Mum fixed it, even if in a dangerous way, nothing will have been logged with social services.

I am installing some wire to go to my little work shop, but I didn’t realise the power from the kitchen is a plug with a switch which I was going to hard wire into, but now thinking of using a standard 3 pin uk plug to connect and disconnect, otherwise it would mean having the electrician to install a new wire, sockets etc. if I can use armoured cable in a regular plug then it would save a lot of hassle, is this a no no thing to do? Isn’t the armoured cable just a normal cable inside with protective sleeving?

This really needs its own thread, if you were not disabled the answer would be you need to ask the landlord to fit it, one can't just do as you want with a rented home, I am assuming outside, and depends where you live, it may be a special location, but better if you make this a thread of its own.

for my shed I plan on installing 2 double metal clad sockets hopefully with usb-c power too, or 2 regular metal clad sockets with a single usb-c only ports single plug? Where would the best place to order these sockets?

As an electrician normally I would supply and fit, this means if anything goes wrong it is down to me to fix it, where presented with items bought else where, the problem is if anything goes wrong there is a question who pays to fix it? I would suggest not really a DIY job, but most the major outlets would sell those items.

is there some sort of law regarding how close the main gas supply to the rcd fuse board can be? They are almost onto of each other, in a closed cupboard.

Already answered why ask twice.

sorry for some backstory here, just wanting to get across how bad the electricians are working with this organisation, as the good electricians left as they were getting a wage cut, with more work. So if this is something I can do, or my mum who knows about this sort of thing as she was a school site manager/caretaker/janitor/maintenance manage.

 

[ericmark]

sorry for some backstory here, just wanting to get across how bad the electricians are working with this organisation, as the good electricians left as they were getting a wage cut, with more work. So if this is something I can do, or my mum who knows about this sort of thing as she was a school site manager/caretaker/janitor/maintenance manage.

It would not allow me to answer all, exceeded the 1000 what ever, so this is what I had to remove to be able to post so the questions need reposting as short single questions for people to answer.

I would look into care and repair, it varies council to council, I did have problems with my mother when tradesmen who did not either care or know what they were doing were sent out, however when sent out by council they are often on a 5 strikes and out basis, so they have a real incentive to do the job right. In Wales where I live we also have Nest.

You need to get social services involved, they have some clout, and can put pressure to bare on landlords and tradesmen, and ensure you do get emergency response where required. Some times you have to force peoples hand, 999 call I have lost electric power for my whatever machine you are using, would have ensured it did not happen again.

However no good if the machine is not really required, I feel it is really important that I don't loose power to my freezers, but it is hardly a 999 call matter, maybe call to insurance company as it would be their loss.

Try reposting as many different questions and you may get better answers. Keep it short and to the point. I know the problem I am also on the spectrum which is why I have taken time to answer.

Do look at the TP-link (Tapo) range of smart light switches, they need a hub, and it seems there are two TP-Link (Tapo and Kasa) so not perfect, but may work out better for you. I would go for smart bulbs rather than switches as a power failure turns them on not off. There are even bulbs with sensors.

I can't remember the organisation name, but I go to get my nails cut, and help the age or what ever they are called, had another guy giving a talk about smart devices and energy saving bulbs, maybe you can get one of these charities to help you?

 

[Gaogier]

Sorry, had pain medication so I do end up over explaining and or give info that is not needed, then my autism on to, I get carried away and I just keep typing, sorry.

the house people was happy for me to install the smart light switch, it is powered via battery and a remote control switch, which I use an ir/rf hub connectEd to Alexa, with routines making sure power is of when not required.

when I say I plan to install things like power to my shed build area, I will never do anything that would involve the rcd fuse board.

the smart light switch was installed by a qualified electrician, from the house landlord electricians. We got permission to install the ceiling fans, was double checked by my brother in-law to be (maybe). Who is a Royal Navy engineer, and had the work approved for safety by the housing company some time after that.

my mum does have qualifications that allows her to do these electronic things.


I am splitting this thread up to make things easier to get answers

 

[EFLImpudence]

my mum does have qualifications that allows her to do these electronic things.

Then why does your Mum not know the answers to your questions?

 

[Gaogier]

I am trying to do some stuff without having to put more on her shoulders, about 10000 things pop into my head, most are not urgent or require anything to be done, other than finding out oh this is what we do for next time or just reassure this is a good or okay thing to do.

example, I think an armoured cable can be used as a regular normal cable as an extension lead, having it armoured it can be put outside permanently and if I require electricity to power my mitre saw, or my polishing buffer for my car, I don’t have to risk using a regular cable. I am about 85% sure if I remove some of the armoured cable, strip it down to the 3 live, neutral and Earth wires it is just a regular cable


i mostly try google, first, and if I can’t find an answer, I either ask here if it’s something to do with diy, cat forums if something to do with cats, or gaming related I go to gaming forums

on my phone, I have somewhere around the 900 open pages as I try and find answers to what ever pops into my head at the time, when I can’t stop thinking about it. Doing this, gets rid of all the thoughts about all of this from my head, allowing myself to rest/sleep.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I am about 85% sure if I remove some of the armoured cable, strip it down to the 3 live, neutral and Earth wires it is just a regular cable

No, you cannot use SWA (armoured cable) to make an extension, it is designed to be in a fixed location and the steel wire armouring earthed for protection.

 

[ericmark]

There are may diffrent types of cable, and standard 3 core 2.5 mm² flex is used to power caravans for extended times, but would be removed and inspected once a year.

SY braided cable has a woven steel outer, tougher than flex, and often has a copper core sandwiched under the steel so even if the steel rusts there as still an earth, move flexible than SWA used a lot in food factories.

SWA no option it needs a gland, and is not designed to be moved much.

Out door electrics are not easy, also need to considered earthing methods.

Maybe not the best option, but asking for a quote to wire shed and asking what is involved will give you some idea and may be cheaper than you think.