joining two timber worktops, best sealant choice?

[Mike13]

As title, I have two pale timber worktops to join, they have arrived with the routed out holes underneath for bolting together. I have now sealed them,but wondering what the best sealant I should use? I know that silicone is difficult to wipe off properly, but it does do waterproof pretty well.
Is there a better choice for me? It is a single 650 mm edge with three bolts to fit.

 

[DAZB]

This is what you need....

Unika Colorfill Worktop Joint Sealant. 70+ Colours. | eBay

<p>Unika Colorfill Worktop Joint Sealant. 70+ Colours.. </p><p>All colours listed are our current stock, if you would like larger quantities please message as full quantities are not listed. </p>

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[foxhole]

Just tape the edges then over spill can be easily removed.

 

[Mike13]

Thanks, now to work out which one is going to be the best match. I suspect I need to find a shop that stocks them to see in real life what the actual colour is. I have some leeway due to the natural variation in the maple, but some will be just wrong.

 

[^woody^]

Clear silicone. You should not actually see any sealant one the joint is made and tightened.

You only need a thin even coating, as you don't want to prevent the joint from being pulled close together, so there should not be excessive over spill. Cut excess off with a sharp blade.

 

[opps]

+1 for Colorfill.

ColorFill Worktop Joint Sealant - More information about Unika ColorFill

ColorFill worktop joint sealant and worktop joint repairer has been used by tradesmen since its formation 26 years ago. Find out more about it here.

colorfill.co.uk

If you end up with any spilling onto the surface, you can use acetone to wipe away the excess.

Personally, I would only use clear silicone for wooden worktop joins. Colorfill is thinner than silicone and will leave less of a "glue" line, that said, it is not like silicone will leave large "glue" line. Silicone will possibly be cheaper though.

Any excess silicone can be cleaned up with "decorators' wipes".

Everbuild Multi-Use Wonder Wipes - Sealant Supplies LTD

Everbuild Multi-Use Wonder Wipes have become the first choice wipe of the nations builders and tradesmen.

www.sealantsupplies.co.uk

 

[chirpychippy]

What you actually need is a product called Bush Board Complete it is an adhesive and sealant in one go.

Colorfil has a working time of about 10 minutes max and that is from when the tube is pierced, where as BB Complete has a working time of 30 minutes max and is far superior to Colorfil.

 

[Wayners]

Clear CT1.

 

[opps]

Clear CT1.

As much as I like CT1, it will leave a very thick "glue" line.

What you actually need is a product called Bush Board Complete it is an adhesive and sealant in one go.

Colorfil has a working time of about 10 minutes max and that is from when the tube is pierced, where as BB Complete has a working time of 30 minutes max and is far superior to Colorfil.

Thanks for the heads up. I will check it out the next time I do kitchen worktops (which, to be honest, isn't very often).

 

[Wayners]

@opps

Best guy I ever seen with worktops used clear silicone ever time.
I just think that will eventually degraded maybe Vs CT1 or similar.

 

[opps]

@opps

Best guy I ever seen with worktops used clear silicone ever time.
I just think that will eventually degraded maybe Vs CT1 or similar.

I owe you an apology.

Bushboard Complete is indeed a MS polymer (as is CT1).

 

[^woody^]

For worktops, you need a sanitary grade sealant, and CT1 may not be that. There is BT1 which is.

 

[opps]

For worktops, you need a sanitary grade sealant, and CT1 may not be that. There is BT1 which is.

CT1 is food safe, it is also suitable for sanitary use. But... over the years, I have noticed that the white CT1 yellows slightly when used in dark bathrooms.

I haven't used BT1 yet. I get the impression that they key difference is that it is thinner and flows more like regular silicone. CT1 is much thicker than silicone.

 

[Mike13]

Now that it has been in the house for a couple of weeks, and flat at its final location I am noticing a slight bow in them both.
Both made of 38mm maple staves.
One piece about 2 m long with a crown of about 1mm, the other is about 1.5 m long by 90cm with a 2mm dip. Those of you with practical experience of fitting these, how many screws should I use underneath to keep it as stable as possible? I am going to give them a bit longer to stabilise before I make a careful effort to adjust the packing pieces so that they line up as well as I can do them, but fully expect over the next few years they might still be affected by the weather/humidity and possible changes to the lay of the wood for other reasons.
They look like the grain is all pretty straight but want the best chance of them staying flat.