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Laying an engineered floor...

Discussion in 'Floors, Stairs and Lofts' started by dormermike, 7 Oct 2017.

  1. dormermike

    dormermike

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    Location:
    Cardiff
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    Thanks. I was about to reply to this. Appreciate your comment but we already laid half the floor and decided to put a threshold in. Reason being the two rooms are different levels and it would have caused problems I think to run the boards across.

    I actually had the whole lot levelled by a professional but as I'm learning these days the word professional is somewhat subjective.

    I am finding even in the lounge there are 5mm drops in levels which are only apparent when laying the board. I stupidly didn't recheck the levels after the professional told me they were ready to lay on. We had the underlay down before I thought of it. I have been propping these with 5mm bits of wood as the board is 18mm so I'm hoping it'll be OK. Most is in quiet areas.

    Would be interested to know how pro floor installers manage around this?

    Here is a picture.. about half way done. Quite enjoying this work so far.

    My next challenge is do I fit the old skirting back on or buy new...
     

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  3. aveatry

    aveatry

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    Your floor looks very much like mine rustic oak, and I had some dips in the concrete but just let the floor span the dips, after all its 18mm engineered and is glued together and to some extent the underlay flattens out some of the unevenness, after 5 or 6 years I have had no issues and the floor looks as good as the day I fitted it. What I did notice though was that when I fitted the long lengths of skirting it showed where the dips were so i scribed the skirting to match but you can see a slight gap under the skirting in one of the pictures but at eye level its not seen
    Is your hall the lower floor that you can lift to match the started living room so you dont have to use a threshold strip, this is my living room looking into the hall DSC02689.jpg
    You KNOW you have to fit new skirting.
    I used oak veneered MDF skirting and I also oak veneered my original door casings and added new oak veneer doors
    pictures
    DSC02685.jpg
     
    Last edited: 23 Oct 2017
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  4. dormermike

    dormermike

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    I need to raise the wood burner slab by about 3 mm so the 18mm oak + 3mm underlay can fit in underneath. I'm thinking of using rapid set self levelling compound just to bring it up a bit. Unless anyone has any better ideas? The hearth slab was laid on a bed of concrete for a 15mm floor but we went for 18mm in the end. Doh.

    Other option would be to lift up the cement bedding and run the board underneath to raise the level but not sure how it all works with the expansion gap requirements. Also not sure if the hearth needs to be fixed to the boards or is OK sat on top.
     

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  5. DIYnot Local

    DIYnot Local

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