Engineered flooring in kitchen - underlay questions

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We want to lay engineered oak flooring over the existing concrete in our new kitchen.

What underlay would you recommend for insulative properties and minor levelling? A combined DPM and cushion underlay like Silentfloor Gold Underlay or fibreboard over DPM?

Also, we plan to fit the kitchen units first and then lay the flooring (tricksy subject I know!) but should the DPM/insulation go down first or after?
 
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We want to lay engineered oak flooring over the existing concrete in our new kitchen.

What underlay would you recommend for insulative properties and minor levelling? A combined DPM and cushion underlay like Silentfloor Gold Underlay or fibreboard over DPM?

Also, we plan to fit the kitchen units first and then lay the flooring (tricksy subject I know!) but should the DPM/insulation go down first or after?

I've done this a lot - DPM, then fibreboard (6mm) then the floor.

I've always lapped the DPM up by about 3 inches or so where it meets the kitchen units - any appliances spill then goes under it.
 
ive laid floor engineered floor in hallway and lounge so far, dining room left to do now. Mine is on concrete floor, which has all th imperfections as usual, when carpet is laid over the top etc.

I used a 3mm underlay called boardwalk by tredaire, its foil backed too.

Boardwalk-Backing.jpg


After having a few weeks with just bare concrete, once I had laid it We noticed a dramatic improvement in the temperature in the room.

We laid the underlay foil side down as It was suggested that it was to act as a barrier between the concrete and the flooring, Im not sure in the case of a kitchen where washing machines etc are prone to spilling their guts over the floor from time to time.

Our floor is 22mm thick, 8mm veneer and we have no bounce at all, I have seen thinner floors laid on thicker underlays (green tiles from wickes) where it fell spongey to walk on a bit.

No pro here, but it worked for me.
 
Hello,

Sorry to bump an old topic, but researching doing this myself.

couple of questions.

1) Is it always recommended to put DPM down underneath underlay (when placing engineered flooring on a concrete floor)?

2) Though I get the impression it splits opinion, floor up to kitchen units or kitchen units on top of floor? Is it a waste of expense or something worth doing?

Thanks
 
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1) always lay a DPM over concrete

2) never install the kitchen ontop of a floating floor. Always fit the floor with units in place and trim the kick boards and unit ends to fit afterwards.
 
Is the reason for doing this as mentioned above, so if any appliances have leakage issues the DPM helps protect the flooring?

Sorry to ask a dumb question, just trying to understand/ learn a bit.

Also so I can figure out whether this rule applies to island units, which I assume it does.

Many thanks for the advice
 
The DPM is to stop residual moisture in a concrete floor ingressing up into the new floor and causing it to blow. The quality of the floor and engineering if the joints will give the floor protection from spillages etc.

Island units are the same as standard units, DO NOT fit ontop of the floor, fit floor round the units. The reason for this is that the floating floor needs to expand and contract, the moment you install a heavy kitchen ontop the floor will be restricted and blow. also, the units will be far more secure if installed direct to the solid subfloor
 

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