laying new floor boards

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I'm not sure whether to lay new boards direct onto joists or leave the original pine boards down and lay the new boards on them. The new ones which are also pine, are 21mm thick, 2m long and with t&g ends so can be laid directly onto the joists. Therefore I would be grateful for some advice on the following.

1. If you lay the boards at right angles to the old boards am I right in assuming that there is no need for any underlay or ply (I will be secretly nailing).

2. If you do lay them the same way as the old boards and the old boards are relatively flat is there any need for underlay/ply.

3. I'm doing the whole 1st floor and therefore should there be breaks to allow for expansion or can I just carry on through the doorways onto the landing and other rooms.

4. Are these the correct nails for invisible nailing - the instructions say that they need to use 65mm nails. http://www.screwfix.com/prods/19381...k;jsessionid=P3EFHMTLDFQWSCSTHZOCFEY?ts=65928

Many thanks for any replies.
 
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In theory, it is ok to fit one floorboard on top of another. is it a ground floor or higher up ?

You don't need an underlay or ply as such, but a few minor issues arrise.

firstly, how are you going to secret fix 65mm roundwire nails ?? to secret nail, you need a portanailer or similar.

And if your floorboards fit at 90 degrees to existing floorboards, what's the point of 65mm nails when you only have existing floorboards (22mm max) and half of 21mm new boards (which are probably actually only 18mm) "they call it 21mm before it is planed" but do ask the supplier!!

In any case, secret nailing with a hammer and punch (i gather thats the way you're doing it ?) with roundwire nails will only split the tounge...

Are you planning to leave the new flooring visible ? as a finished floor?
 
Thanks for the reply.

mac391";p="1578383 said:
In theory, it is ok to fit one floorboard on top of another. is it a ground floor or higher up ?

It's not the ground floor, it's the first.


firstly, how are you going to secret fix 65mm roundwire nails ?? to secret nail, you need a portanailer or similar.

I wasnt sure - I have been looking at nail guns as I am concerned about damaging the boards (and my fingers :) )

And if your floorboards fit at 90 degrees to existing floorboards, what's the point of 65mm nails when you only have existing floorboards (22mm max) and half of 21mm new boards (which are probably actually only 18mm) "they call it 21mm before it is planed" but do ask the supplier!!

Good point! 65mm was what the supplier recommended but as you say it's a bit pointless if you only nailing through a tongue and one floor board. I will measure their depth tomorrow and if they are less then 21mm I'll report them to trading standards - LOL

In any case, secret nailing with a hammer and punch (i gather thats the way you're doing it ?) with roundwire nails will only split the tounge...

I'm not sure which are the best nails to use and therefore could you recommend the most appropriate ones

Are you planning to leave the new flooring visible ? as a finished floor?

Yes, they are a finished floor. They these: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Solid-Wood-Flooring/invt/190131

So just to clairfy it is ok to lay them in the same direction as the original boards
 
I would only lay them the same way as original boards on a customers request (with no guarantee) but have done so successfully !! Really should be laid at 90 degrees though.. or remove original boards!!

I believe they are 21mm boards but do check. You can hire a portanailer from HSS with the correct nails. 50mm should do, to secret nail. Don't try it by hand with ovals...

You also have to consider door height and skirting etc, Your doors will probably need trimming (sometimes easy, sometimes not) and if your skirting is less than 5" (125mm) it will just look crap, so maybe worthwhile removing skirting and re-placing.

Just a thought... you could buy rustic oak for a few £££,s more !!
 
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mac391";p="1578616 said:
You also have to consider door height and skirting etc, Your doors will probably need trimming (sometimes easy, sometimes not) and if your skirting is less than 5" (125mm) it will just look crap, so maybe worthwhile removing skirting and re-placing.

Thanks again.

I do plan to remove the skirting.

Out of interest, would it be best to remove the orginal boards and nail the new ones direct to the joists or dosn't it really make any difference.

Just a thought... you could buy rustic oak for a few £££,s more !

It's partly a cost issue and partly that I don't happen to think oak looks better than pine. If it was the ground floor I may have gone for Oak due to it being a harder wood.
 
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Out of interest, would it be best to remove the orginal boards and nail the new ones direct to the joists or dosn't it really make any difference.

Depends whether you consider it more hassle to remove the old boards, or to take all the doors off and reduce the bottoms, and deal with the skirting.

Another consideration is whether access is, or might be needed under the floor in the future for any plumbing or wiring. This could be quite difficult if you have two lots of floorboards, laid perpendicular to one another.

I'm a big fan of sanding existing floorboards, myself.

Cheers
Richard
 

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