Lead-lined roof gulley

[colinturner]

Do you mean the Plygene Gutterline system made by SLE? The link (from your previous posting) is here

Looks good, is made to the customer's spec and may have to be my ultimate solution. In the meantime I have 12m of exposed plasterboard, a view of the sky from one room, and several rolls of lead sitting on the kitchen floor, so I'm committed to carrying on.

Thinking about the SLE continuous gutter, I wondered if an added safety measure might be to buy 12m of pond liner or similar and lay it in the gulley before laying the flashing. Don't know if it's sold in the narrow width I require, but may be worth investigating.

 

[masona]

No,it made of some sort of soft metal probably aluminum.

Good idea regarding plastic sheet under the lead flashing,you could use Roofing Felt which are 1m wide to whatever lenght you want & also you can get PVC Roofing Membranes which is made of strong plastic sheet.

In the future you could put the Plygene Gutterline system on top of lead if you have anymore problems........

Good luck

 

[colinturner]

PVC membrane would be better than roofing felt. Any tips about buying and using it?

 

[masona]

Any good Roofing or Builder merchant will supply them.

The PVC membrane should go under the existing roofing felt + batten and on the other side of your wall whatever height you're going to, I would then screw 2"x1" batten thru' the lead and PVC membrane flush parallel along the wall,then cut a groove joint above it for a another new lead flashing over the 2"x1" batten then make goods to the groove joint.

 

[lead worker]

i am a lead worker and this is not an easy job for a d.i.y. project. if you cant form steps then there is a product that allows expantion it is called a t-prene joint but this must be lead burnt (welded) using ocy and special gun called a model o kit. do not just lap the lead as some one said this WILL LEAK. also using code 4 lead is a bit thin I would suggest code 5 and with either of these you can use it in 1.8metre lenghts. as I said not an easy diy job

 

[Building Contractor]

The best way to go about this is to strip back about 5 course of tiles, then starting from the middle of the gutter form steps either side using a stepped wall plate on the wall side and a stepped lay board system on the roof side. Form the base of the gully from 20mm WBP board. Lay a WBP ply board about 600mm wide up the roof rafters and then lay your lead in 1.5m lengths in a stepped formation making sure your have 150mm overlaps and wide enough lead to lay up the lay boards on the roof side. You then lay the felt overhanging the lead 150mm at least, then lay your tiles. If the rafter is rotted then you could take back all the tiles up to the ridge and double up the old rafter with a new one, of if there is no plaster board underside, take the old one out and replace it.

 

[Jim Allen]

Hi Colin new to this formun notice you have a gully problem with rotten rafters

bolting new rafters alongside is a good idea but a cordon sanitair is a good addition that is a waterproof membrane between the two and both pieces of timber liberally soaked with coprinol five star or similar - thus it dampness gets in the rot does not activate again. - as for the joins if you do a roll over at the underlap overlap point it will break the capillary action present. The continuous roll roof valley is also a good Idea but if I remember rightly the company will want to install as well as supply and you know what that means to meet their guarantee requirements a complete roof rebuild.

Jim

MOD

welcome to the forum

please see 17