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New lead over old + flashband?

Discussion in 'Roofing and Guttering' started by cyberbub, 22 Nov 2021.

  1. cyberbub

    cyberbub

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    Hi all, hoping some experienced people on here will have some ideas.

    Just moved into a house. There was old lead flashing on the join between the sloping kitchen roof (slates) and the main building - the lead was looking tired and had some small cracks in it. A previous owner had also applied 'flashband' over the joins, which was starting to fail.

    I got a roofer in to put brand new lead along the join (around 7m length). I have two queries:

    1. He left the old lead (and flashband) in place, and installed the brand new lead strip over the top, overlapping the bottom of the old lead by a good 5cm+. He said this was the most effective way to do it, otherwise it would have made a mess and the slates underneath the old lead would have all had to be replaced. Will putting the new lead on top of the old cause a problem?

    2. At the top end, he has tied the new lead into the gap between bricks, one course above the old lead strip, and then mortared the gap. Is one course higher enough?

    Thanks for any tips!
     
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  3. wgt52

    wgt52

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    Can we have photo's please. You description doesn't give me enough to advise you on.
     
  4. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    I know a bloke, he's normally quite good at this lark and modest, and he recently fitted some self adhesive lead-free flashing over the top of 8m of existing lead on the basis that it will be OK and not worth the time and mess of taking the existing flashing out. :whistle:
     
  5. cyberbub

    cyberbub

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    Here is a photo - new lead, but they didn't take the old lead off, it's still under there... does it matter, as long as the new lead is securely fixed? (which it appears to be, to my untrained eye).

    Is it normal to have the lead strips left without any sealant between the sections? Or do they need to be left separate because of expansion and contraction?

    Thanks for any tips!
     

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  6. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    The idea is fine, that work is shiite - it's been given a right hiding.

    Laps are not required to be sealed.
     
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  7. cyberbub

    cyberbub

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    Thanks woody. What do you mean by a hiding exactly?
     
  8. datarebal

    datarebal

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    Looks thin code (3) to me and short on side Laps . Unless it's an illusion .
     
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  9. Harry Bloomfield

    Harry Bloomfield

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    It has been battered within an inch of its life. It should be flat and perfectly smooth, done with skill and the correct tools.
     
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  11. cyberbub

    cyberbub

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    Thanks.

    Sigh... perhaps it's the old lead layer underneath which has made it a bit uneven when hammering it down... It might not look quite as nice, but no one can see it really - are there any technical problems with a surface slightly 'dented' in places?

    Once it's been put on, how would I be able to tell whether it's code 3, or the code 4 I asked for? I didn't check the rolls as such, didn't think I needed to...

    One final question - is there a problem with them having used cement mortar to seal the lead in? The work was done on a cold day (approx 5 deg C) and the wall faces south.

    Thanks very much again for your help.
     
  12. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    The job is OK but looks complete shiite. That's it
     
  13. wgt52

    wgt52

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    How many sections of lead has he put in? each section should be a maximum of 1.5mtr to stop expansion bulges.
     
  14. datarebal

    datarebal

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    Laps look way to small, Low code (3) lead used for cover flashings..not great lead .jpg
     
  15. datarebal

    datarebal

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    Did you see the colour of the tape on the roll? TBH I can see its c 3 just by the way its dented
     
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  16. cyberbub

    cyberbub

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    Thanks all. Section lengths are variable, two are at 1.6m and the others well below 1.5m. Laps are about 50mm.

    I didn't see the tape colour on the rolls unfortunately. I have a micrometer gauge which I have used on them (I can access the flashing out of the windows), the readings are variable, from 1.4mm up to over 2mm - see photos. It's possible the slight bends or dents in the lead are making it thinner - or am I clutching at straws?? Or have they used differing Code sheets of lead?
     

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  17. datarebal

    datarebal

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    Nice try , you can't be getting a true reading like that
     
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