Lead Mains Replacement - The continuing mission...

[deko]

I suspect this is going to drag on a bit so I'm gonna try to break up this threa d into nice small segments - one question at a time

I'm going to replace my lead mains supply pipe with a plastic one. My first dilema - the current pipe is not 750mm below the surface, its about 500mm.

So do I still need to dig down the full 750mm and bend the new pipe down from the stopvalve to the new pipe run?

Thank You
d.

 

[htgeng]

Yep. Next question?

 

[mark.carline]

I have looked into getting this done for me recently and I have managed to find a couple of companies (approved by the local water board) who will provide a new water pipe from the stop cock on the path in the road to my stop cock in the house.

The best bit is that they use a mechanical mole to do it in that they only need to dig 3-4 holes and then just mole inbetween each one.

I got a quote for £450 all in.

 

[wonderb0y]

So do I still need to dig down the full 750mm and bend the new pipe down from the stopvalve to the new pipe run?

No you can insulate and protect the pipe using something like guttering pipe or waste pipe instead to prevent it from freezing and any impact damage.

I got a quote for £450 all in.

good quote

 

[Nige F]

Good Quote thats much less than £50 for the placcy pipe and other plumbing bits so £400 for an easy morning .......2 a day and you`re laughing More lucrative than Rhino Dod....allegedly

 

[BoxBasher]

No you can insulate and protect the pipe using something like guttering pipe or waste pipe instead to prevent it from freezing and any impact damage.

But it is far easier to take out an extra 250mm in depth (unless in bedrock) than going to the hassle (and expense) of insulating and ducting (continuously) the pipe its full length.

Usually find that to get passed on a lead replacement scheme it must be 750mm deep unless ground conditions do not allow.

 

[deko]

Hmmm I don't like the idea of bending that pipe down from 500mm to 750mm. Suspicious Thames Water inspectors will fail the installation because the bend is not at 750
But then I can't see them being too forthcoming in lowering the stopvalve to the correct depth for me either.
Is it actually a legal requirement I tell them I'm doing this.

750mm down or not, I plan on using the lagging and ducting to protect that baby.

This brings us smoothly on to my next question...

What pipe do I use for ducting?
Diameter, material?
It'll have to be bendy.

Many Thanks
d.

(Any chance of some name dropping MC, that quote sounds good to me )

 

[mark.carline]

Good Quote thats much less than £50 for the placcy pipe and other plumbing bits so £400 for an easy morning .......2 a day and you`re laughing More lucrative than Rhino Dod....allegedly

Actually the guy said it was a full days work for 2-3 people. It included 4 holes, moleing, connection to water meter in the road, connection to internal pipework, new stop cock (gave me the option of one of these new switch ones if I wanted it) plus any reenstatement (tarmac etc).

Plus as they are approved by my local water board, they can just do the work with no inspection required.

 

[petetheleak]

At that price snap their hand off as long as they reinstate it properly must be an easy dig.

 

[BoxBasher]

At that price snap their hand off as long as they reinstate it properly must be an easy dig.

The switch one would have to be in addition to a normal stoptap which must be at least BS1010 Screwdown type (which the self-cert guys should know)

Being self-certified isn't always a measure of good quality, it just means you can blame them if you get caught with a breach of regs. To become WIAPS approved is only one exam... they aren't audited anywhere near as much as they should be and WIAPS don't penalise them enough (if at all) when they are caught breaching...