Leaky Worcester

Joined
1 Jan 2007
Messages
144
Reaction score
4
Location
Manchester
Country
United Kingdom
My boiler has developed a leak! (Worcester 24 CDi) and I've traced it to an isolation valve on the CH flow pipe. It goes through the back of the boiler so i'm not sure if it's an integral part of the boiler, or whether I could just replace it?

It's leaking through the screw on the valve so I'm guessing that it's shot :(

Any advice welcome, thanks :)
 
Sponsored Links
They dont usually leak unless you have turned it recently !

Even so they usually stop after a while. Wiggling it a little might help.

You can change it but it can be a difficult job depending on just how the pipework has been arranged.

Tony
 
I've not touched it for about 18 months when it was shut off to do a repair on the boiler, so it seems a bit odd. I've just tried wiggling it and it made it slightly worse lol It's not major at the moment so i'll just keep my eye on it for now.

Just for reference, are these a worcester specific part or is it just a standard 22mm iso valve?
 
As far as I recall they are bolted through the metal plate and a dedicated Worcester part but you must check that.

Tony
 
Sponsored Links
By 'both' I presume you mean the flow and return valves? (excuse my ignorance!)

Excellent link though, thanks very much for the help :!:
 
I had the same problem on my 28Cdi last Christmas, and the leak was so bad the system could not be used. Couldn't get anyone to touch it. Apparently the the boiler has to come off the wall more or less.

I was at my wits end because we couldn't afford a new boiler or the cost of repair, so after a lot of experimentation I used a washer (with that plumbers mait stuff and boss white) and a capping nut clamped in place by a jubilee clip. It worked a treat and has held to this day. Mind you, the boiler is at the highest point on the system which made things a lot easier because I only had to drain the boiler to stop the leak while I worked on it.

I'm told a Worcester engineer would NEVER use any of those valves to isolate the system because they are too unreliable. For the mains water inlet and gas you can use the main stopcocks to the house, but I don't know how you'd isolate the heating circuit if the boiler was lower on the system.

My advice is never turn any of those valves unless you really have to.

I'd be happy to give you more details on what I did if you need them.
 
You can never trust a ball-o-fix type valve on ch system pipes. When I work on a boiler I never touch them, I just drain till system self airlocks which is about the same time as if you shut them. On fresh water ie taps and mains they are fine to turn on and off. Muck in the CH system ruins the seal and they should be left alone.
 
thankfully ive not had to change one of these for a few years now. ill porbably get loads next week now :LOL:

the boiler doesnt have to come off the wall but it does need to be moved out at the bottom to get the valve out of the frame. it can be a pig of a job and the flue sometimes doesnt have enough give to let the boiler move out far enough so it needs removing too.

you can also remove the entire water section in almost one piece to do it that way but that involves putting it back together again and the small tube across the top can be an absolute nightmare to get back in.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top