Level my kitchens joists/floor

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I'm trying to level my kitchen floor. I made 2x8 beam out of 3 2x8 10 foot boards. Bolted it together and screwed it. Then I measured the joists some are 2x10 and some are 2x8. How do I fill in those gaps? I tried using ripped 2x4s but they cannot with stand the force I'm lost don't know what to do from here
 
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Diagram and photos would help, I can't understand what the current situation is
 
The pictures will help, and the reason that the floor wasn't level in the first place, but essentially, you need to find the highest point of the kitchen, and then start levelling to that point. It's a bit odd that you've got 10" and 8" joists (or are these the ones that you've made) but all you need to do is bolt the new joist alongside the current ones with M10 coach bolts ever 750mm, using flat plate washers underneath the nuts. It's really a 2 man job, but you level the joists as you go along, clamp the new one along side the old one, and then drill and bolt them together.
 
Here is some pictures i attempted to pad out all joists to 10 1/4 which is not working because the low side of the floor that is taking all the jacking pressure the pad is cracking and sinking in to the beam
 

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Here is some more
 

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Not sure jacking it up is the best idea, you really need to dismantle it and rebuild at the right height. Otherwise you're basically forcing your house apart as you've discovered. Also acrows are for providing support not lifting things.
 
There not lifting the bottle jack and 6x6 is..... how do I get it to right height I know these things I'm asking how to do it.
 
There are two different size joist to I sister all joist and make them all the same width from the top of each of the joist that are already there
 
I don't know if the picture is really showing what I'm doing that beam stops at the black column the beam is only 10 foot 4 inc long. The joist are different sizes that's why I padded them to make the them all the same. It's not working because those pads are being compressed and not holding up should I sister all the joists to get them all the same width ?
 
Is your plan to use this beam to push upwards on the joists until the floor on top is level?

How far up do you need to move the joists, on average? Have you calculated the force that you need to apply to the beam to make that happen?
Have you considered the possibility that the joists will twist rather than simply moving upwards?

I think you're well into structural engineer teritory here...
 
I don't want to sound unhelpful but I really think you need help from a professional here. I don't think anyone in the UK would as a matter of course jack things up without rebuilding whatever's above, but it seems from googling that in America people literally Jack their whole house up over a period of days if necessary.
At least getting local help would be better as this site is actually UK based, so you'll mostly get advice on UK ways of doing things.
Good luck!
 
In the UK, we have a plate going around the wall that the 1st floor joists sit on, that's why we wouldn't expect different sized beams. if the joist had dropped for any reason, we'd remove the 1st floor floorboards (possible 2nd floor in your case) and then start levelling from the top, hence my initial comment that you find the highest point on the floor, and then sister and bolt the joists alongside to bring them all up the same height. You're working from below, and trying to push up the upper joists, and the packing pieces are compressing because they're more likely softwood. They'd need to be oak or something, but you might still be tackling the problem the wrong way round for us to help with.

You first need a spreader plate such as a spare joist under the jack to spread the load over a wider area though. The joists don't (or at leas shouldn't) need sistering to bring them all up to the same width to solve this problem though.
 

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