Levelling a Floor - 2 different finished floor levels at joining doorways

[Gizzydash]

Finally getting around to levelling our dining room floor which I thought some self levelling would sort. Think i'm just on the cusp of what self levelling can handle (50mm).

In process of establishing finished floor levels to level to, i've found that the dining room joins into two other areas where the finished floor levels are different. Dining room has 3 entry doors in total, 1 to outside (original), 1 to kitchen (relatively new extension) and 1 to hallway (original victorian tiled).

The hallway door threshold floor is 20mm higher than the other two. I obviously can't level to this as I'd have a 20mm step down into finished tiled kitchen floor. Taking the floor down 20mm at the hallway sounds like a right pain - assuming not even a grinding job (old concrete floor, not to modern standards but still would have to dig section out to bring down 20mm). That's not to mention i'd have a 20mm step up to hallway - not sure how I could bridge this. Maybe tiles on top would go someway to address this and door bar.

Anyway, right pigs ear, even a complete redo I'd imagine i'd still have the issues of matching up across two different finished floor levels. Hallway can't be raised as it joins onto all other rooms and they're all level (enough).

Any ideas for how to arrive at some sort of solution?

Many thanks

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Oops. You keep bobbing about between hallway higher and lower...either way you're going to have fun.
50mm will cost you a fortune in self levelling- usual deal (assuming concrete) is screed up to between 10 and 5 mm below then top off with SLC.
How far is it from hallway door to either of the kitchen exits (have you got enough distance to lose the difference on a slope. 20mm over 1 metre would be really annoying, over 10 metres you wouldn't notice it. Obvs SLC won't work for that plan.
The other option (depends what other doors you have off the hallway & the general layout) is to ramp the hallway down to kitchen level. Might be an initial pain but possibly easier to live with than a sloping kitchen floor

 

[Gizzydash]

Thanks. Confusing myself at this stage with the different levels! Hallway is defo 20mm higher than kitchen though, and about 6 metres between each door.
Taking 20mm off near hallway doesn't sound like an option, think i'd be nearly into sub base (it's a thin old screed on top).
Screeding sounds good for deeper areas to fill but assume as you go up and depth gets shallower there's a risk of screed being too thin.
At a loss with this one, feels like be easier to dig out the whole floor and relay properly and make some sort of trade off between the 20mm difference

 

[cdbe]

If you split the difference to 10mm and use thresholds at the changes in levels you won't even notice it.

 

[tell80]

As above, maybe its just me but its difficult to follow your levels?
Anyhow, the Victorian tiled hallway is a feature that people spend pounds on to retain or reproduce so perhaps leave it well alone.

The hallway meets say a front room threshold, & a rear room threshold, and a kitchen threshold.
You say that there is a drop of 20mm (or 50mm?) at two of these these doorways - can you say exactly which other floor in which room is how much lower than the hallway?

You seem aware that altering FFL's has knock-on's affecting skirting, units, doors and sometimes devices in floors and walls.

As mentioned: splitting differences at threshold/transitions might be the only reasonable possibility?