Lever on 3 way

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i have an old system with hw tank.
Problem with loud clicking from 3 way diverter valve.
Maybe gearbox had it?
Anyway
If I manually lock the lever what will work and what won’t.
Same if I leave it to click?
Controls have hot water and hot water and central heating switch.
Whole system being replaced in a months time so just need to limp along until then
 
If you lock the lever, the valve will serve heating and hot water.
If you put the heating on it will release the lever when heating goes off again so..... Lock the lever, put on hw only, remove cylinder stat from side of cylinder so that it does not turn heating off when cylinder is up to temperature
 
Hi Daveydub
The lever moved off the locked position as you said. I had it on heating and water.
Initial problem... if I move the lever towards the locked end when it is clicking a few more mm it stops clicking and the pump kicks in. Thinking micro switch but can’t see one. Maybe barking up the wrong tree
Ok. If I remove the stat then it will cycle on the room stat? Also how hot will tap water get? Not that I am bothered.
 
remove the front part of your heating programmer and see if you have a wire going into the HW/off terminal , if you dont that is why the valve is clicking, very common mistake when fitting these
 
remove the front part of your heating programmer and see if you have a wire going into the HW/off terminal , if you dont that is why the valve is clicking, very common mistake when fitting these
Hi
Not fitting a new one. This has been running for years. Thanks for input though
 
Only control that you will have is the stat on the boiler. Obviously not the cheapest way to run your heating but keeps you going for the time being
 
Only control that you will have is the stat on the boiler. Obviously not the cheapest way to run your heating but keeps you going for the time being
Ok. So although the stat isn’t on the tank it will regulate the temp via air temp around it. So it will go in and out on it.
I think I can isolate it as all entry exit points have manual valves. The pump has one above and below but no red handle on them but I take it that I can remove a handle off another. I am an electrical tech so can isolate and test and rewrite. Cheapest place if I change it?
 
it will regulate the temp via air temp around it. So it will go in and out on it.
Cylinder stat is probably set to 55/60. Take a lot of heat to make that go off. Could turn it down (probably not by enough to count) but then you are trying to control whole house heating by taking the temperature in the airing cupboard. It is only for a month. Use time clock & boiler stat to control
 
Last question. Does it sound like a replacement would fix it ?
Also
Are all 3 ways the same. Pop to Screwfix etc.
Cheers
 
Does it sound like a replacement would fix it ?
If it is faulty then yes, if it is a faulty cylinder stat or time clock then no.
With the cylinder stat taken off it will be "calling". put on htg & hw, turn roomstat up, does valve move & pump/boiler come on?
Now turn cyl stat down(you should hear it click). Now does valve move etc.
Turn cyl stat back up & select ch only at clock. What now?
Commonest valves are either ACL (Drayton) or Honeywell. Any make on yours or can you identify on screwfix site?
 

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