I have been over to my sons house to look at his outside light. Its not worked for a while -even after replacing the bulb.
Its one of these cheapy non-enclosed tungsten-halogen flood lights (B&Q's best I think).
It obviously needs replacing. He wants a energy efficient flood with PIR.
My understanding that I can change this without requiring BC involvement. The circuit it runs of is RCD covered with a 63Amp/30mA device, with a 32 A MCB providing overcurrent protection
BUT the fixed cabling comes off on of his ring finals with only a conventional light switch controlling it. On investigating further as I realised the ?1mm spur is unfused other than by the 32 A MCB.
I was planning to improve this by:
i) feeding a FCU with a 3 amp fuse as a spur from the current sigle socket where the light is attached.
ii) This will then feed a 20A double pole (neon) switch.
iii) Final cabeling will be in 3 core 1.5 mm2 NYY cable secured to outside wall with appropriate clips.
I realise that this is not a direct "like for like" replacement but to my mind rectify many problems without causing much internal decorative aggravation.
I have only spent a short time fully investigating the circuit but can confirm (having tested line, neutral and cpc) that it is a ring final.
Any advice gratefully received.
FiFi
Its one of these cheapy non-enclosed tungsten-halogen flood lights (B&Q's best I think).
It obviously needs replacing. He wants a energy efficient flood with PIR.
My understanding that I can change this without requiring BC involvement. The circuit it runs of is RCD covered with a 63Amp/30mA device, with a 32 A MCB providing overcurrent protection
BUT the fixed cabling comes off on of his ring finals with only a conventional light switch controlling it. On investigating further as I realised the ?1mm spur is unfused other than by the 32 A MCB.
I was planning to improve this by:
i) feeding a FCU with a 3 amp fuse as a spur from the current sigle socket where the light is attached.
ii) This will then feed a 20A double pole (neon) switch.
iii) Final cabeling will be in 3 core 1.5 mm2 NYY cable secured to outside wall with appropriate clips.
I realise that this is not a direct "like for like" replacement but to my mind rectify many problems without causing much internal decorative aggravation.
I have only spent a short time fully investigating the circuit but can confirm (having tested line, neutral and cpc) that it is a ring final.
Any advice gratefully received.
FiFi