Lime in wet conditions

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I'm looking first for info on plastering in wet conditions as opposed to damp.

What is the lime application for tanking - eg brick cellars and coal bunkers, perhaps with york stone ceilings.

How does lime render work in these situations where you want to stop water getting in- sometimes running in?

I have been back to places that have been tanked (sika system) twenty yars ago, and they are fine. What advantage would there have been using lime?

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For damp , as per a lot of posts here -
If bricks can breathe ie let moisture in and out both sides, what is wrong with allowing one side to be sealed if the moisture in the brick can get in and out via the other side?
 
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Peaps will be doing a lot of Googleing for the answers to this one. :D
 
I'm looking first for info on plastering in wet conditions as opposed to damp.

What is the lime application for tanking - eg brick cellars and coal bunkers, perhaps with york stone ceilings.

How does lime render work in these situations where you want to stop water getting in- sometimes running in?

I have been back to places that have been tanked (sika system) twenty yars ago, and they are fine. What advantage would there have been using lime?

----------

For damp , as per a lot of posts here -
If bricks can breathe ie let moisture in and out both sides, what is wrong with allowing one side to be sealed if the moisture in the brick can get in and out via the other side?

is this a trick question Micilin..?
 
Not at all. Just trying to work it through. I can see all the reasons for replacing like for like, keeping period buildings' integrity, not putting stronger naterial onto weaker and so on

However the wet tanking application I've not seen a tradional solution and the logic of not sealing up one side of brickwork needs explaining.
 
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"Converted cellars - most below ground rooms were cellars and cold stores which are an important part of the moisture control system. Unlike basement rooms where the ground is kept away from the walls and either drained or artificially raised, all cellar stores have their walls in contact with the ground and deliberately allow the moisture to saturate them. This ensures they remain cool. They are also often built so as to intercept underground watercourses ensuring they regularly flood to a few inches. As nothing was ever stored directly on the floor or stored in direct contact with the walls, water and damp did not matter - the water from the flooding was actually used as a water source for the house to save going outside to a frozen well or pump in winter. Importantly, these cellars actively encourage moisture to pass through the walls and floor where it evaporates into the air. The cellars were always ventilated to prevent the air becoming too humid, so all the excess moisture simply escapes outside and stops any damp problems occurring in the rooms above. If they ever get converted into habitable rooms, the ventilation is stopped up and the moisture is sealed back into the walls and floor, forcing it up into the rooms above as dampness."

http://www.davidkinsey.co.uk/pages/damp.php

I use the Oldroyd tanking membrane system. This allows the water course to be undisturbed and the walls can breath as they were meant to do.

It's a good question and difficult when converting a cellar that wasn't designed to be liveable so to speak.
 

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