There only seems to be about a couple of degrees difference between the cylinder flow and return. I have read here that there should be 11-20 degrees C between the flow to and return from the boiler. What can one do about this? The cylinder has its own 2 port motorised valve, as do the two heating circuits. What is the most efficient temperature to run the boiler at?
Little difference between cylinder flow & return
- Thread starter patagonia
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in a phrase
not a lot.
if you want to get the diff then you can try increasing the diameter of the primary and secondary flow and returns ( I would suggest 28mm) and also over size the rads (about double the size should do it) oh yeah and make sure you have all the windows open when you turn the boiler on that should do it.
I would not worry about it too much, out of interested why ARE you worried about it?
not a lot.
if you want to get the diff then you can try increasing the diameter of the primary and secondary flow and returns ( I would suggest 28mm) and also over size the rads (about double the size should do it) oh yeah and make sure you have all the windows open when you turn the boiler on that should do it.
I would not worry about it too much, out of interested why ARE you worried about it?
Madam Patagonia
Dont worry about the difference between flow and return on your hot water, instead concentrate on you zone valve problem.
Dont worry about the difference between flow and return on your hot water, instead concentrate on you zone valve problem.
Madam Patagonia
Dont worry about the difference between flow and return on your hot water, instead concentrate on you zone valve problem.
Clf I am being thick as I cannot see whats wrong with his valves?
Mind you I have had a few
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Matt, This lady has a faulty zone valve which has been causing poblems for the last 10 days or so.
By the way she is a delicate flower of 71 years young.
Im well on my way as well, been tiling all day
By the way she is a delicate flower of 71 years young.
Im well on my way as well, been tiling all day
Matt, This lady has a faulty zone valve which has been causing poblems for the last 10 days or so.
By the way she is a delicate flower of 71 years young.
Im well on my way as well, been tiling all day
TILING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Oh man you poor lamb, drink more NOW
and yes she shoudl sort that out
oh dont worry its easy, ask gcol
corgiman -
I'm only worried about it because the boiler instructions and the things I have read here say there should be at least 11 degrees difference between flow and return. The primary flow starts off bigger than 28mm and then reduces to 28 mm where the pipes divide for the various zones. I wondered whether it might have been the cause of the kettling.
clf - see my post under motorised valve stuck. You will be pleased.
I can't tell you how fed up I am with all this. It would be nice to have a life.
The thermometer I am using is a battery operated device that someone sold my husband for the purpose, though it clearly wasn't designed for it. It has a metal rod which I hold against the pipe and it displays the temperature in a window. I wouldn't know how accurate it is in terms of the precise temperature but presumably it should be accurate for the purpose of comparison between one pipe and another if one keeps it on through a whole boiler cycle at each end. Anyway, even with the boiler set fairly low, if you touch these pipes there is no perceptible difference between flow and return whereas you can feel a distinct difference on the rads.
Dear God, is that the time? And I have my son and family coming to lunch tomorrow. And if you are thinking he should be able to sort out my problems, forget it. He's a musician and won't have the faintest idea what a motorised valve is or know the first thing about a heating system. No wonder I'm on Prozac. Night night all. I quite enjoy your repartee and it's been a steep learning curve.
I'm only worried about it because the boiler instructions and the things I have read here say there should be at least 11 degrees difference between flow and return. The primary flow starts off bigger than 28mm and then reduces to 28 mm where the pipes divide for the various zones. I wondered whether it might have been the cause of the kettling.
clf - see my post under motorised valve stuck. You will be pleased.
I can't tell you how fed up I am with all this. It would be nice to have a life.
The thermometer I am using is a battery operated device that someone sold my husband for the purpose, though it clearly wasn't designed for it. It has a metal rod which I hold against the pipe and it displays the temperature in a window. I wouldn't know how accurate it is in terms of the precise temperature but presumably it should be accurate for the purpose of comparison between one pipe and another if one keeps it on through a whole boiler cycle at each end. Anyway, even with the boiler set fairly low, if you touch these pipes there is no perceptible difference between flow and return whereas you can feel a distinct difference on the rads.
Dear God, is that the time? And I have my son and family coming to lunch tomorrow. And if you are thinking he should be able to sort out my problems, forget it. He's a musician and won't have the faintest idea what a motorised valve is or know the first thing about a heating system. No wonder I'm on Prozac. Night night all. I quite enjoy your repartee and it's been a steep learning curve.
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