Log Cabin Electrics

[DARTHVADER]

Hi Johnd, pic of incomer.


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[sparkticus]

Hi Johnd, pic of incomer.


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Please wait for a more expert (DNO) opinion but that looks like TN-S to me.

 

[DARTHVADER]

Thanks.

 

[JohnW2]

I can confirm that no water pipes or any other services enter the cabin. Will this make a difference to the earthing arrangements?

At risk of re-kindling a frequent 'debate' here, there are some issues other than water pipes etc. that I think you need to consider - although I suspect they will not be an problem for you...

Given that it's a log cabin, do I take it that it has a proper floor which is reasonably separated from the underlying soil, and that there is no structural metal etc. which is in contact with the underlying ground and is accesible within the cabin? If either of those assumptions were incorrect, we may need to discuss further - otherwise no problem.

In order to avoid other issues about the earthing arrangements, I would suggest that you avoid having any metal lightswitch near the door which could be touched by someone standing on ground outside of the cabin and, similarly, avoid any metal switches, sockets or light fittings etc. on the outside of the cabin.

Kind Regards, John

 

[westie101]

Looking at the size of the incomming cable I'm more inclined to think it is a Plain CNE, however the connection to the earth block looks to be taped or has heat shrink on it.

Is this an overhead or underground supply?
If overhead a photo of where it connects to the lines outside would be useful

 

[DARTHVADER]

hello JohnW2,

The cabin will be sitting on a 'footprint' of concrete around 5m x 4m. The concrete is approx 3m3 worth of material, so quite a depth.

The cabin itself is 4.5m x 3.4m. The cabin has good solid floor bearers, sitting directly on the concrete. floor, which is then overlaid. Not sure if this will be sheet, or plank/floorboard as yet.

No structural steel to speak of anywhere.

Hello Westie01.

The supply is underground supply.

 

[JohnW2]

hello JohnW2, The cabin will be sitting on a 'footprint' of concrete around 5m x 4m. The concrete is approx 3m3 worth of material, so quite a depth.

That works out as 15cm (6") deep, which I guess is about normal for such things.

The cabin itself is 4.5m x 3.4m. The cabin has good solid floor bearers, sitting directly on the concrete. floor, which is then overlaid. Not sure if this will be sheet, or plank/floorboard as yet. No structural steel to speak of anywhere.

That's probably as well 'insulated from earth' a floor as most outbuildings are likely to have. With the concrete base not much larger than the cabin, if it were me I would still want to make sure that no metal switch/socket inside the cabin could be touched (through the door) by someone standing on soil/lawn/whatever outside it, but I'd otherwise probably be fairly happy.

Kind Regards, John.

 

[DARTHVADER]

Thanks for the response John.

Would it be prudent to install a ceiling pull cord switch for the light. I don't really wish to have switch too far away from the door, especially on dark winter nights.

I'll be sure to site sockets well away from the door, and will use all plastic back boxes.

 

[JohnW2]

Thanks for the response John.Would it be prudent to install a ceiling pull cord switch for the light. I don't really wish to have switch too far away from the door, especially on dark winter nights.

Indeed. I would personally regard that as an ideal solution. To have a non-metal switch would be another option, but the pull switch is probably best.[/quote]

Kind Regards, John.

 

[DARTHVADER]

Thanks again for input.

The double doors on the cabin do swing open partly onto lawn, which is being dug out and leveled for a couple of flagstones, directly in front of the doors, for access to cabin from the lawn.

The main base is all on the concrete pad.

 

[DARTHVADER]

Hello All,

Just getting on with the electrics now re. this post.

Just stripped the armoured cable, and its two core not three!! (I was advised it was three core, when I got it)

This now means I will be using the swa as the earthing.

Will this impact the 'exporting of the earth' back to cu?

Nothing else has changed.

Thanks,

 

[ricicle]

If you have any extraneous conductive parts entering the log cabin then the armour of the SWA will not be large enough to be used as a bonding conductor.
Personally I would isolate the armour at the cabin end and make it a TT anyway.

 

[DARTHVADER]

Thanks for reply. There are no extraneous conductive parts.

I have used piranha nuts, and have a solid connection to the brass gland. So I'm happy to still export the earth, especially now I have researched that the csa is large enough on the 2 core 6mm/2

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I'm trying to work out how you could have got as far as you did without spotting that the cable only had 2 cores.

Am I the only one who would never have backfilled the trench without having run continuity and IR tests on the cable to make sure it was OK?

 

[DARTHVADER]

I know, a real pain. Cables been in for about 4 years!!

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