Long armed ball cock/float valve

Joined
11 Dec 2014
Messages
80
Reaction score
4
Location
Manchester
Country
United Kingdom
Hi folks.

I'm restoring a 1906 Japkap high-level toilet cistern (pine, lead-lined) and have run into a slight snag.

The original ballcock was brass (no problem - easy to replace you say…), however there were two unique factors.

1) the arm of the ballcock would need to be around 340mm long (most modern replacements from Screwfix, etc are only 210mm) - see the one shown on the right here:

Is it possible to get a long armed float valve or an extension? If I thread a piece of brass bar to make my own extension will this damage the float valve?

2) the ballcock was mounted on the rim of the cistern - could I just rest the threaded portion of the valve on the rim and use a copper pipe clip to screw it down?

Many thanks.

 
Sponsored Links
What a very interesting thread. I love old stuff like that thanks for taking the time to add the link.

You could always solder two arms together, means buying two valves though.
HTH
 
Back to screwfix for a Fluidmaster brass shank side entry valve :idea: - on the premise that one won`t see the mechanism from below , and the pipework will hold the valve - yes clip it to the rim with a 3/4 inch copper saddle clip ( and short black jap screws - not c/s pozidrive ). I collected over a 4 year period , everything for an authentic WC - as you are ? .From a "Speedwell" iron cistern with silent syphon ( not the bell type ) through a lead flush pipe to victorian flower patterned pan which would have sat in a wooden box with an original wood seat . Got all the stuff ready to replace the nondescript WC in the cloakroom - though I had already fitted a modified Victorian drinking fountain with a tap ,as a hand basin . Then we moved and the buyers didn`t want the old look :!: So I sold it all - but the basin stayed because I had to bury the waste in the wall :LOL:
 
if you use option2 instead of using copper saddle you could use one of these 15mm straight wall plate adapter which would give a more ridged fix available from screw fix in gas fitting section or any plumbers merchants
 
Sponsored Links
Thanks folks - glad its of interest.

Nige - we're on the same page, I'm going for an authentic Edwardian bathroom for my 1906 terrace.

Right. Option 1:

Buy two quality float valves from Screwfix - like this.

Cut both arms to give one long arm. Thread the ends using a die (I've never soldered before) and connect using a sleeve like this:
SCREWED%20ROD%20CONNECTOR.JPG


Then fit a copper ball valve like this:
32101121.jpg


And fasten the float valve to the rim using a copper saddle clip like this:

Aquafax%20Jpegs%201319.jpg
.

Pros: looks authentic, but only I'll know
Cons: May take some adjustment. Will be very noisy when refilling.

Option 2 (and its a great shout from Nige):

Buy a fluidmaster brass shank side entry valve

And either a) fit it over the rim, held by the pipework and a saddle clip. b) drill a hole and mount it as designed. C) use the gas fitting as proposed by HOWEDPLB - that fitting looks great but I can't work out how it would work...

Pros: Quiet, fast filling, less adjustment, less work for me, cheaper, more reliable
Cons: it wouldn't look right.


I think that Option 2b is the way forward folks. There is an existing hole in the cistern that would originally have been the overflow but would be ideal for the side entry valve due to the position of my existing services.

I'll be adding an overflow to connect to the existing 22mm plastic outlet and thought that this one from Screwfix would do the job well. I'll drill an appropriate hole for it.

The only final question will be what sort of washer/seal to fit between the syphon and the lead box. The original one was rubber and when fully compressed was around 2mm thick, 74mm OD, 43mm ID.

Once I've finished I'll post a build thread in case it is of any interest to anyone.

Thanks again everyone.
 
... but then again - imagine how good it would look with all that copper and brass if I recreated the original look!

...but it would be noisy

aaagh! can't decide.
 
You`d have to fit a mirror on the ceiling to see the brass + chrome :p . I made a hemp + paste grommet for my WC - but I daresay you can get a rubber washer from a merchant - or even a diy shed .
 
I recently (2013) joined two arms together using an 8mm or 10mm soldered fitting.Can't remember which size i used.
 
I'd fit a BS1212 part 1 brass ballvalve & when I pulled the chain it'll sound the part.....🔧🔩👍👍
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top