Cracked my float valve arm - what to do

[jadzy]

I've cracked the float valve arm while shaping it. Do I need to replace it or can I leave as is?

The story... Had a leaking coupling between feed pipe and plastic/nylon float valve fitting in the toilet. After much faffing about I couldn't get the leak to stop, (lots of different fibre washers/ptfe etc tried) so bought a new brass float valve fitting (and some rubber washers). only problem was its a narrow cistern and I needed to put a 30 degree bend in the end of the arm so the float fitted in the cistern and didn't fowl the syphon when moving. In bending it I've put a crack in the arm about a third of the way through its thickness. Bent arm is working a treat, and no leaks now. but bothered about the fact the arm is now 'broken'. Do I need to go get another arm and try again? Should have heated it to soften the brass but no means of heating it... hohum. Or can I just forget about it as it'll be fine for the rest of its life?

Cheers in advance for any replies

 

[buck51]

To be on the safe side replace it.

 

[jadzy]

knew that was the answer somehow... <sigh>

 

[Nozzle]

You could clean it up real well and attempt to solder it back. If it's clean and it flows into the joint, it'll last. If it's ends up a "dry" joint, replace the arm.


Nozzle

 

[Whitespirit66]

I would poss buy another valve, remove the split pin pivot on the faulty one and remove it's arm. Remove the arm the same way from new valve. Then using duff arm as a template, bend the new arm to the same curve - heating if poss. Then fit new arm.

As above, soldering is another option.

Remember, if the crack on arm breaks, the valve will keep filling, full bore. You better hope your overflow is up to the job.

 

[Mikefromlondon]

I wouldn't be able to sleep knowing that the fractured arm may snap altogether and start overfilling the cistern, possibly causing a flood if the overflow cannot cope with the mains water flooding in.

Until you decide to get another new one, why not just reinforce a coat hanger wire or something similar and tape it up to the brass arm, this should be more safer than to just leave it as is, it may break and cause flooding.

 

[Burnerman]

Just an add on....the ball float doesn't have to be round....there are barrel shaped floats that may fit into the cistern a bit better.
John

 

[Madrab]

Yeah as burner man says, change the fill valve/float type.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/fluidmaster-brass-shank-bottom-entry-fill-valve/47792

 

[Nige F]

Must be a Chinese float valve - brass should take some bending OK - just bought a chinese tin opener - looks like the real thing , won`t open `owt Mark my words , this is gonna be the way forward - 90% of things will be chinese c-Rap

 

[jadzy]

It was a pegler valve. Anyway, another bought, shaped using heat this time, combined with a oval shaped float meaning less of a bend needed. All good.

thanks all for advice offered.
Merry Christmas