Decent Part 1 float valve for bending

[DIY-JC]

Now then.
I need to bend a float valve arm into an interesting shape to fit my old cistern. Needs to be part1 because a part2 body wont fit the space.
I've already snapped one from BES.
Does anyone know of a float valve with an arm that will bend well?
If it comes to it, does heating the arm help? I've heard arguments for yes and no.

 

[ChrisJP]

A lot of newer float valve arms are now plastic which will snap if you try to bend them. I'm not sure if heating will help.
If you can, find a float valve with a brass arm - these are readily bendable and this was the old way to make adjustments, before the float ball was mounted on an adjustable mounting.

 

[CountryFan]

Would a compact float valve work instead, or just it be brass? Part 2 not much different from a part 1.

 

[DIY-JC]

Morning ChrisJP, Stuckinarut.
Bit more background. I have an old Bell type cast iron cistern. I originally plumbed it it in the wrong way around (outlet and inlet holes backwards) so I could fit a float valve in the large open space on one side of the tank. I found that a compact float valve did not give enough depth of water to allow the tank to work so am now plumbing it in the correct way around. I bought at copper bodied float valve from BES https://www.bes.co.uk/float-ball-valve-brass-piston-side-entry-1-2-8738/
but the arm snapped, the arm was outer copper but filled with a poor quality monkey metal.
The picture is what I am looking at doing, not my tank but you get the idea.

As you can see, the flush arm is a bugger. A part2 valve with the stopper on the end won't fit into the space, plus the ball valve arm on a part2 would hit the flush arm.

 

[CountryFan]

Hard to tell exactly from the picture but have a look at Torbeck side entry and Viva Skylo side entry, one may work? Failing that, try a pegler brass one?

 

[DIY-JC]

I'd have to measure to see if a Viva Skylow will fit and give a high enough water level to allow the cistern to flush. Might be easier than trying to bend a one hundred quid brass valve.
The "brass" valve I used must have been a cheep import

 

[DIY-JC]

Changing tact a little. If I fit a Vival Skylow and I cant get the water level high enough, has anyone had any experience in cutting the inner pipe to lower the height of the required water?

The cistern is very similar to the one shown but my grips the bell at the side. My thought is, if I cut the pipe at the red line, the water level would not need to be as high - but would I loose the suction of lifting the bell to raise the water?

Pictures courtesy of

Burlington bell style cisterns - period WC cistern explained

The Burlington bell style cistern explained - they may be considered old fashion, but are reliable and show a period property in its original state.

www.practicaldiy.com

 

[DIY-JC]

I'd have to measure to see if a Viva Skylow will fit and give a high enough water level to allow the cistern to flush. Might be easier than trying to bend a one hundred quid brass valve.
The "brass" valve I used must have been a cheep import

SKyfow dont fit. too tall.

 

[DIY-JC]

Justa thought, is it possible to fit the arm of a part2 valve upside down so it bends up and not down? Or back to my original question, apply heat to help bend the arm?

 

[Exedon]

The arms on modern brass ball valves can snap for fun
Yes heat arm to red heat bends easily, I've heated the bend on part 2 valves straighten the bend then re bent nearer the end to get extra length.

 

[DIY-JC]

Cheers Exedon.
Red heat might be a little more than I cn get with a paint stripper gun but I'll see if one if my neighbours has something.
Ive got two arms to work at so wish me luck.