long stud wall
- Thread starter Munroast
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D
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In terms of accuracy, the position of the in-between studs don't matter as much, but the studs where the boards join must be bang-on. Measure all the stud centres from one end of the wall, not from the previous stud which can result in creeping cumulative errors. When the studs are installed use a Sharpie to mark the centre line of studs on the floor - this (and a laser level) will make the task of "blind screwing" the wall cladding to the studs a bit easier. The wall might be more stable if the boards were laid horizontally, in brick pattern, although the downside of that is that it might require more cuts. Are you fixing to a ceiling?
Staggered noggins at 1m & 2m heights would also help stability.
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will be using 3m x 1.2m tappered edge, the wall is 3m high. There is a 3m high suspended ceiling and that will sort of rest on. There is also some big girders igh up that I could possibly get a angled brace onto
So back to my question, if starting from a 90º vertical wall. I would measure exactly 9600 to the centre of the stud for my last board. I would not allow a liitle bit extra along the way to allow for boards not put on precisly or errors in board size. (leaving a 0.5mm between boards would not cause a problem, but can't mke a board 1mm narrower.
Out of curiosity how much time would such a wall take an experienced joiner and roughly what would they charge per hour. there is a 10m wall and a 6m wall (studs only (in nogins), (it has taken me a whopping 12 hours to do just the 6m wall
(i'm doing the work for free (they're providing the timber) just curious as to how much I'm saving them)
So back to my question, if starting from a 90º vertical wall. I would measure exactly 9600 to the centre of the stud for my last board. I would not allow a liitle bit extra along the way to allow for boards not put on precisly or errors in board size. (leaving a 0.5mm between boards would not cause a problem, but can't mke a board 1mm narrower.
Out of curiosity how much time would such a wall take an experienced joiner and roughly what would they charge per hour. there is a 10m wall and a 6m wall (studs only (in nogins), (it has taken me a whopping 12 hours to do just the 6m wall
(i'm doing the work for free (they're providing the timber) just curious as to how much I'm saving them)
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Can't see it can't quote it.
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just the stud wall, 10m long 3m high (4x2's two nogins) how long for a decent joiner
D
Deleted member 174758
16 metres of wall framing - I'd budget about 1 to 2 man days to frame out if I were really going at it, with a labourer to help raise the frames into place. That's assuming that you are using 3.2 metre timbers to make the framing, and it's being made up on the floor as something like 6 separate frames on the floor and raised into position, then fixed. If you can't cut and assemble in situ or you have to make it up vertically it will take longer. Door openings also add to the time as they can be relatively labour intensive. To board out I'd budget 1-1/2 days to board out (single side) simply because you are up and down ladders with the top cuts.
The foregoing is assuming I have an SDS (to fix the sole plate down, assuming concrete), chop saw, cordless circ saw and a framing nailer. Boarding would be done using a collated driver. All assuming no oddities in wall shapes, floor and ceiling not diverging too much, materials stacked ready to go, not having to fix the header into steel, etc. Based on having done two double-sided infills between two shop units last year which were a bit bigger than yours (14 no x 2.4 metre frames x 4 metres high)
As FMT says, it isn't easy to quote without actually seeing the job in person
As to daily rates, they vary a heck of a lot. We are currently in the "happy time" when all the schools and colleges get work done, there is a shortage of skilled trades, and even the agencies are offering £25/hour and above for day work. Independents generally charge more than that, with rates in my area now being £250 to £300/day, I'm told
The foregoing is assuming I have an SDS (to fix the sole plate down, assuming concrete), chop saw, cordless circ saw and a framing nailer. Boarding would be done using a collated driver. All assuming no oddities in wall shapes, floor and ceiling not diverging too much, materials stacked ready to go, not having to fix the header into steel, etc. Based on having done two double-sided infills between two shop units last year which were a bit bigger than yours (14 no x 2.4 metre frames x 4 metres high)
As FMT says, it isn't easy to quote without actually seeing the job in person
As to daily rates, they vary a heck of a lot. We are currently in the "happy time" when all the schools and colleges get work done, there is a shortage of skilled trades, and even the agencies are offering £25/hour and above for day work. Independents generally charge more than that, with rates in my area now being £250 to £300/day, I'm told
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thanks for that, its probably a bit more than twice as fast as I went - (I had to use a hammer though)
D
Deleted member 174758
Yeah well, at my age I'm starting to slow down a bit
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