loud vibrating sound central heating

It just acts like any other bypass.
No it doesn't.
It acts as a open circuit radiator losing unnecessary heat.

Bypass requirements are clearly indicated in the boiler iom.
It's likely that the plumbing put in by the professional is mostly uninsulated anyway so bridging the feed back to the return will be fine.
 
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Thanks all. Should clarify I didn’t mean to insult any plumbers on here. Just a bit unlucky with the ones I’ve chosen perhaps.

I think I do have a bypass valve which reminds me that I did ask on here what to do with it. I must admit I found it a bit tricky to understand how I was supposed to adjust it. Likewise with drawing the system. I don’t think I understand enough about it and where all the flow and return pipework is- especially what all the pipework in the airing cupboard corresponds to.

To confirm- if I temporarily have a bypass radiator, appreciating this isn’t the best solution, should the lock shield be fully open or throttle back? I can then perhaps ask a heating engineer when I next need a boiler service if there’s a better set up.
 

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Thanks all. Should clarify I didn’t mean to insult any plumbers on here. Just a bit unlucky with the ones I’ve chosen perhaps.

I think I do have a bypass valve which reminds me that I did ask on here what to do with it. I must admit I found it a bit tricky to understand how I was supposed to adjust it. Likewise with drawing the system. I don’t think I understand enough about it and where all the flow and return pipework is- especially what all the pipework in the airing cupboard corresponds to.

To confirm- if I temporarily have a bypass radiator, appreciating this isn’t the best solution, should the lock shield be fully open or throttle back? I can then perhaps ask a heating engineer when I next need a boiler service if there’s a better set up.
Ditto for the trades on here. Decent of them to give the time tbh.

Your picture is a bypass valve so your rad shouldn't be used as one. However, that rad could have been flung in without proper placement in the system. It's hard to know tbh. What is, rarely matches what should be.

The red indicator is the setting. You turn the head to set the valve. Google danfoss abv. The setting instructions are there but is really just dead heading the sytem when hot and the feeling for heat on the outlet as you wind back the head. Once that set point is found, you turn 1/2 turn back and job done.
The idea is the valve opens in reaction to pump pressure rising as the trvs close to guarantee a min return flow rate.
Your valve looks to be set at low?
Might not be working at all. They can be sensitive to crud. Easy to clean up tbh.

But, drawing out the system will confirm its in the right place, pointing the right way :)
 
No it doesn't.
It acts as a open circuit radiator losing unnecessary heat.
Yes it does, it shouldn't be the only radiator "on". The thermostat turns off the boiler when it reaches the set temperature. The radiator without a TRV operates like a bypass.

If the radiator is hot then the other radiators will be on as well. Unless it is only working as a bypass when all other TRV's are off, like it should.
 
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To confirm- if I temporarily have a bypass radiator, appreciating this isn’t the best solution, should the lock shield be fully open or throttle back?
Throttle it back, not too far or it might not work when you want it to.
 
Yes it does, it shouldn't be the only radiator "on". The thermostat turns off the boiler when it reaches the set temperature. The radiator without a TRV operates like a bypass.

If the radiator is hot then the other radiators will be on as well. Unless it is only working as a bypass when all other TRV's are off, like it should.
"Like a bypass".

But not.

It's a poor fudge, especially in today's world where energy prices are sky high. And, i may add, likely no longer code compliant.

This system has a proper bypass fitted. The OP should ensure that's working properly.
Find the problem and fix it.
 
I will get the bypass checked and have a another google-thanks.

Denso- as a ballpark how much of a turn (or turns) from closed on the lock shield would you say I should be aiming for?
 
Denso- as a ballpark how much of a turn (or turns) from closed on the lock shield would you say I should be aiming for?
Close it and open it half a turn. See how it goes.
 
Yes, but in the short term, take the TRV head off.
Agreed and it's been said early on.

My point (I'm an engineer. I like fault finding!) Is to go find the fault.

I see the bypass has been hacked into by the last plumber with press fit plumbing. Nothing against press fit where it's done properly but it's a red flag for hackit plumbing.

Teeing into the bypass? Wtf is that all about?

The trv is bi-directional so should be ok. The system has a bypass so should be ok.

I read a lot of this forum. I seem to remember abvs being opened up fully to hide plumbing bodgery.

Yea, patch the system in the short term but go and pull that loose thread. You might be glad.
 
The trv is bi-directional so should be ok. The system has a bypass so should be ok.
Should be and will be are two totally different things, so many cheap TRVs on the market that are supposed to be Bi-directional but rattle when fitted the wrong way round
 
And I'm a plumber, but you've already made your feelings clear on tradespeople.
You need a thick skin in trades and I'm sure yours is as thick as anyone's.

Tradespeople?
Great bunch.

****s impersonating tradespeople?
Not so much.

Every industry has fakers and fonies. I'm happy to call them out in mine.
 
As am I.

I wouldn't call out an engineers mistakes because I don't really know enough about it.
Ya you do.
Some bodgery is clearly obvious.

The eye is a natural engineer. If it looks right, it normally is. Vice versa.
 

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