making front door secure

[Rusti]

Hi,
I'm developing a flat where the old front door lining has split at the lock where it was kicked in and I want to make it all properly secure. I have replaced the lock-side of the lining but it just seems a little too thin for a front door for my liking.
The door is set back under stairs to the upstairs flat (i.e. away from passing eyes) and therefore I really need to make this door strong enough not to be knocked in.
Can someone advise on what my options are regarding making it strong enough please? Should I replace the lining with a proper frame or are there products to reinforce the lining? Otherwise should I get a uPVC door instead of timber?
I would prefer a wooden door rather than uPVC as they look nicer and also as this is a development I need to keep a rein on the costs so would ideally like to keep materials costs under £200- £300 if poss, but security is the main consideration.
Thanks

 

[JohnD]

A wooden door is stronger and can be made more secure than a plastic one. Plastic doors are festooned with additional hooks and bars because they are fundamentally weak. They also look vile and are ridiculously expensive.

If you can afford a hardwood door and frame, get one. Fit a BS deadlock and a BS nightlatch as well, if you can afford it. BS deadlocks are cheaper than BS nightlatches, and very reliable as they usually have internal brass levers rather than a cylinder. Most Eurolock cylinders are not as secure. Nightlatches are easier to break than mortice deadlocks as the keep will come off the frame if barged or kicked a few times. Deadlock keeps are much longer and screwed to a larger expanse of frame. As you say you are trying to keep the cost doiwn, just fit a BS deadlock. The Union J-2134E at £27 came top in a recent Which test, equal to the Ingersoll SC110 at £165.

Preferably have no glass panels or letterbox in the door as it is possible to reach through and turn a key left in a lock, or the knob of a nightlatch, using a simple home-made tool. BS nightlatches have an internal lockable knob which prevents this. Put any letterbox as far from the door locks as you can, preferably in the wall. Deadlocking the door so that it cannot be opened from the inside when you are out also prevents anyone who has entered through a window from walking out through the front door carrying your belongings. When you are at home you may want to leave the internal knob operational so that you can quickly open the door in an emergency.

Keep your own keys out of sight so that they cannot be grabbed by someone at the door or through a broken panel or letterbox, even using a long rod with a hook on it. lock away spare keys in at least a metal keysafe bolted to the wall, again, in case someone gets in through a window.

If you think the door is liable to be attacked by kicking or barging, you can reinforce the frame where the keep goes by bolting on a Kickstop metal reinforcer. The door should be fitted using three heavy 100mm hinges, in which case hinge bolts should be unnecessary, but they are not much extra.

It is best to have the door and hardware fitted by a skilled joiner, as solid hardwood doors are heavy and you want the locks fitted accurately. A viewer and a heavy steel chain on the door is useful.

As well as fixing the frame securely to the wall using long screws and plugs, you can add expanding fireproof foam. This goes rigid and helps hold the door firm, and also keeps out draughts and smoke. It has only been on the market 10 years or so and not all joiners will be in the habit of using it unless you ask. Brush off any dust or loose material from the brickwork after removing the old frame, so that it can bond well.

Also fit metal window locks with a removable key. You can hang the key on a cup-hook screwed into the window frame at an upper corner behind the curtain where it cannot easily be reached by someone through an open or broken window.

You will probably find most of this advice on the Security Recommendations or Requirements leaflet which your home insurance company will send you if you ask. If you have not met their requirements they may reject a claim.

I would add that if you are having an intruder alarm, put the control panel away from the front door and out of sight so that it cannot easily be attacked by an intruder in the between opening the door and starting to sound or dial out. We had a member on here recently whose panel was ripped off the wall and disconnected during a break in. Given time it would have phoned out an alert.

 

[foxhole]

Is it a converted flat? they often forget to reinforce the walls around the door, they should have steel mesh secured behind any plasteboard walls to prevent someone simply cutting thru with a knife.

 

[HERTS P&D]

For a secure door you will need the following:

A London Bar to door frame on lock side
A Birmingham bar to door frame on the hinge side.
3 - 100mm hinges, with hinge bolts.
1 night latch (top lock)
1 mortice lock (bottom lock)
2 internal barrel bolts
1 door viewer
1 door chain
You could even have a sheet of metal screwed to the front or rear of the door.
Also go for a 'solid core' door, these are very heavy!!!

If your door is opposite a wall then you are more likely to get broken into as they will use the wall as leverage. If you have a letter box in your door try and keep it low down, so people can't look in and have a smoke alarm on the inside ceiling of your front door.

Hope that helps

Andy

 

[^woody^]

For a secure door you will need the following:

A London Bar to door frame on lock side
A Birmingham bar to door frame on the hinge side.
3 - 100mm hinges, with hinge bolts.
1 night latch (top lock)
1 mortice lock (bottom lock)
2 internal barrel bolts
1 door viewer
1 door chain

Jesus, if I had to use all that malarky then I think I would move to a better neighbourhood

 

[^woody^]

Hi,
I'm developing a flat

Then you don't want a prospective buyer to see a load of additional security devices on the front door

You will need a 1/2 hour fire rated door as this is a flat, and any solid core fire door or certified HW door (non panel) will do

Fit a BS deadlock and mortice and a chain or viewer. That will suffice for a buyer

You should already have a door frame not a lining (again half hour fire rated) if not, fit one

 

[Rusti]

Thanks for all your replies.

In the end I got rid of the old softwood lining and had a hardwood frame and door (no glass) fitted with a BS night latch and BS mortice lock. I'm very happy with the result!

I didn't opt for a London/Birmingham bar as they don't look that neat in my opinion and I am going for a brand-new feel to the place, plus whenever I've seen them used they are usually over the top of spliced wood when the frame has been kicked in, so I have a slight reservation about the look of them.

It's a flat with its own front door so fire rating isn't necessary, plus as it sits in the main structural wall, no reinforcement of stud walls are necessary.

Hardwood frame £45 ish from Selco
Colonial front door £80 ish from Selco (as opposed to £189 from Wickes!)
Era BS nightlatch £40 from Screwfix
Era BS 5 lever mortice lock £20 from Screwfix
3 hinges (2 pair) £8 from Selco
Carpenter £140
Quick drying primer & undercoat £15 B&Q
Gloss paint £15 B&Q
£363 ish all in, not too bad in my opinion.

Thanks again for your help!