Door/window combination frame making.....

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Hi there, I'm having a new porch built which will have an opening for the front door, with windows either side starting from hip height running up to the top of the door frame. The builder isn't going to do the joinery side of things, just the construction work.

In all my previous houses we've had upvc front doors but we would like a wooden front door on this one, so am I right in assuming that it needs to be fitted into a wooden frame?

If that's the case who should I go to to get this done? Would a joiner/carpenter obtain lengths of timber profile and make up the frame on site himself, or does it all need to be measured and designed and made like the plastic stuff? What about the security side of things?

Many thanks.

MODS; Hope you don't mind me cutting and pasting this topic from the windows and doors forum where it wasn't getting any responses, thought this might be the more appropriate forum.
 
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You could get one made to order but why bother; just buy a door frame set to match the door you're getting. A hardwood frame will cost £35 to £50, and can be assembled on site.
 
Ah ok, so you buy the hardwood door frame much as you would buy a softwood one for indoors. What about the windows which are to next to it on either side, how would they be made?
 
They would be made with timber same as the door frame.


Window frames come ready made in soft and hardwood, door frames as you've been told come in kit form. So many sizes designs of windows they settle for few ready made styles and others you have to have made to measure/design.

Hunt around and get both doors and windows from the same outlet that way ask for a discount, I've done it and it works rather than letting you walk away with no sale. Even 10% is better than a kick up the butt!.
 
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the builder shoule be able to build the porch around a standard sized frame and sidelight. Buy a nice hardwood one, the quality will be better. You can treat it wilth preservative, and paint or stain the frame, especially the back sides which will be inaccesible when built in, before fitting. this will give longer life and better protection.

the builder will be sure to scratch it, so you can sand and refinish the on-show surfaces after he's finished.

A good joiner will fit a door faster and better than you or I can, so find your joiner before you start. He may recomend a source. If your builder is any good he should know some local joiners of equivalent quality to himself.

Decide what brass hinges, locks, knockers etc you want in advance.

It is more secure to have a letter box beside the door, to the hinge side (not the lock side) as this reduces the ease of breaking in if the letterbox is in the door. Ask your builder to give you a suitable sized slot for the letterbox. You can buy or make "sleeves" to go in the brickwork for this.
 
Right then, many many thanks for putting me straight on all this. So, the door frame comes in lengths like for internal frames and is made up on site. The window frames must be made in advance though and come ready to just be fixed to the brickwork and glazed?

What glazing system is normally used with hardwood frames, is it still non-setting putty or something more sophisticated these days?

Thanks for the advice re putting the letterbox in the wall, unfortunately that will have to be a retro fit now!!
 
Don't use putty on hardwood doors (or window frames) that'll be varnished. The glass is sealed against the weather with glazing mastic (cartridge gun) and held in place with matching hardwood glazing beading. Tip: arrange the beading so it'll be on the inside for security reasons, the crims won't be able to ease off the beading to pull the glass away.

You can get doors/frames/sidelights as matching/complementary sets from people like Premidor or John Carr - check their www's.
 

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