Metal Back Box Clips

[securespark]

Lunacy

Why thank you!

All I'm trying to do is make a cleaner, neater install.

I think my OCD is getting worse in my old age.

I shall find another way to fix the boxes.

The problem is that, with it being Paramount, there's bugger all wood to fix anything to.
I think I'll either whack a load of bonding in the hole or trim some wood to the right depth and find a decently strong glue to stick it to the other side of the Paramount "sandwich".

 

[pete01]

Why thank you!

All I'm trying to do is make a cleaner, neater install.

I think my OCD is getting worse in my old age.

I shall find another way to fix the boxes.

The problem is that, with it being Paramount, there's bugger all wood to fix anything to.
I think I'll either whack a load of bonding in the hole or trim some wood to the right depth and find a decently strong glue to stick it to the other side of the Paramount "sandwich".

What about my link in #9?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I found these on Amazon, but again, I can't find out how they work...even after studying their (un)helpful guide!

From what I could see...

It's a matter of folding the metal strip at 90deg. The wide strip is folded first, so the wide strip, hooks behind the PB, with the pair of tangs poking out, at each side. The box is then slid into place between them, then finally the two tongues are folded 180 degrees around the front edge of the box.

A major problem, might be, that there is nothing to prevent the box sliding too back in the hole, until the socket screws are inserted. That problem, could perhaps be resolved by glueing some sort of spacer to the rear of the box, to help keep it in place.

 

[securespark]

What about my link in #9?

Thanks, but won't the pieces that jut out be visible?

 

[pete01]

Thanks, but won't the pieces that jut out be visible?

Apparently they are wafer thin...

 

[securespark]

Might try one. Thanks!

 

[securespark]

From what I could see...

It's a matter of folding the metal strip at 90deg. The wide strip is folded first, so the wide strip, hooks behind the PB, with the pair of tangs poking out, at each side. The box is then slid into place between them, then finally the two tongues are folded 180 degrees around the front edge of the box.

A major problem, might be, that there is nothing to prevent the box sliding too back in the hole, until the socket screws are inserted. That problem, could perhaps be resolved by glueing some sort of spacer to the rear of the box, to help keep it in place.

Thank you very much, Harry.

I'd happily give them a go, but if I need to stick a spacer in, I might as well just glue wood to the plasterboard, let it go off and screw a standard metal box to it.

 

[JohnW2]

Apparently they are wafer thin...

Maybe, but I personally might have been tempted to use much the same language to describe the 'flange' of a standard 'dry lining' box

 

[robinbanks]

Whereas, with a DL box, you get the accessory raised off the surface, albeit only slightly andin some cases, you can see the edges of the DLB too.

You’re supposed to fit the boxes before the plasterer comes

Buy a router, place DLB over hole(wrong way round; easier to hold), draw round, router out the edge of the hole a fraction(1-2mm, freehand, you won’t slip much), fit the DLB, go round with filler and sand paper

screw a standard metal box to it.

Then you have to mess around earthing the back boxes, but yes a couple of bits of batten SticksLike’d to two edges of the hole will give you something to skew screw a metal box to. Or a plastic one if you cut the flange off. Still reckon the router would be faster and neater

 

[JohnW2]

Buy a router, place DLB over hole(wrong way round; easier to hold), draw round, router out the edge of the hole a fraction(1-2mm, freehand, you won’t slip much), fit the DLB, go round with filler and sand paper

Yes, I suppose that is a variant of the suggestion I made ...

I suppose that if one was really concerned and was very 'careful', one could probably remove 1mm or so of the wall surface around the edge of the hole, so that the flange of the box could sit in that 'depression', allowing the accessory itself to be totally flush to the wall?

 

[robinbanks]

Yes, I suppose that is a variant of the suggestion I made ...

Didn’t read yours before I made mine, but if it helps assuage any “please sir please sir, me first! Me first! Aww but that was my idea!” sense of upset, then I acknowledge that your suggestion is a generalised version of the specific advice on tooling and technique I offered

Perhaps the OP has never owned or used a router, and doesn’t appreciate just how quick easy it makes an operation like this, and didn’t appear to take on the original suggestion because they had visions of the struggle it would be to hack out a millimetre of skim using a Stanley knife, taking ages and risking ruining the fresh surface at the first slip..

Hands down, a router would make this a doddle. Vacuum attachment would clean as it goes