monoblock basin tap on TC Bathroom unit

[ashdale]

Two years ago I had a TC Bathroom suite installed in my upstairs bathroom. It includes a Trafalgar basin and Serie 4 monoblock basin tap. The tap unit has worked a little loose and I seek to tighten it up.

By removing the drawer fronts I can look up underneath and with a mirror, I see the cold and hot water flexible pipes vanish up behind the rear of the basin. I can't see the base of the monoblock as there appears to be a horizontal partition in the way. All the mirror shows me is what looks like a large chrome-plated circlip (inch and a half in diameter, say) resting on it. Surely it's not just this holding the monoblock in place? Or is this part of something else, like the plug mechanism support?

The manufacturer's brochure that came with the installation only shows the tap superstructure, not the method of screw attachment. The contact details on the brochure don't work as (I've discovered by emailing this question to them first) the TC Bathroom Company has recently folded.

So does anybody know how to get at whatever holds the monoblock in place? I guess I'll have to dismantle/remove the whole drawer assembly first as well. Is there a short cut for this or must I undo every nut/screw I can find?

Thanks for any replies, guys

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Underneath the basin, you will have your hot and cold pipes to taps, the circlip you describe is a fixing washer, that helps support the tap to the basin. like this
There should be a central nut that will require tighten up, that holds the washer and tap in place.
To tighten this up you will require monobloc tap spanners

 

[kbdiy]

Presumably a ceramic basin? Just don't tighten too much - otherwise you'll be buying a new basin if it goes 'ping'!

 

[ashdale]

After taking the drawers out and looking up to see where I have to tighten, I now discover that the monobloc box spanner I bought is too long to fit in the space between the basin waste pipe and the nut!

The waste pipe is connected to the final outlet pipe in the wall by a series of small plastic sections--see photo. Obviously I have to dismantle these to get the box spanner in.

I don't want to strain the system by bending the pipework too much. Which two are the best to loosen first?

Untitled

• ashdale
• 6 Mar 2013
• 1

Untitled

• ashdale
• 6 Mar 2013
• 1

 

[kbdiy]

As it all looks quite tight, I would remove the trap from the basin waste first then dismantle the remaining elbows until you get enought clearance. Bear in mind there will be water in the trap so have a bowl or bucket handy. All connections should go back ok, just make sure any seals that may be in the connectors don't get lost or damaged, which they shouldn't anyway but just take care of them.

When replacing them don't tighten until they are all lined up correctly as you may need to juggle them slightly to realign them.

Test by filling the basin with the plug in and let go so there is a full flow of water through the pipes. If you want extra security put a bowl or towel under the waste in case of leaks. Check by wiping round the connections with a dry piece of kitchen towel and retighten if there are any leaks.

 

[jctilingservices]

simplest way is to use either a box spanner or a deep reach socket on an extention bar and ratchet, dont overtighten, try to have someone old the tap in a central position so it does not move whilst tightening it

 

[foxhole]

simplest way is to use either a box spanner or a deep reach socket on an extention bar and ratchet, dont overtighten, try to have someone old the tap in a central position so it does not move whilst tightening it

He has the spanner , just not the room to use it.
Flexi socket joint would help

 

[ashdale]

I haven't had time yet to address this issue, ie dismantle the pipework. But......

the box spanner I bought (a monobloc set) is just too long to fit vertically over the nut. The other box spanners I have (normal length) are BA ones and annoyingly, the 0BA one is just fractionally smaller than the 11mm I need! I do have a deep reach 3/8" drive 11mm socket (and a flexijoint) but the stud seems to be just too long to allow the socket to reach the nut. I don't know if I can get metric box spanners of standard length on line (I've not looked) but B&Q didn't have any. If I thought I'd get other use for a metric set of boxes (like on the car), I'd get them and then the monobloc problem would be solved! I may look in a "proper" toolshop (as opposed to B&Q) this weekend.

 

[foxhole]

Plumbers merchants do a set of box spanner just for this purpose, if you get metric socket set go for long reach type.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-monoblock-tap-spanner-set/40102

 

[ashdale]

All done. I bought a 10mm/11mm box spanner (on line, as it happens) that is only 4" long. It fitted in the gap and so it was all a doddle, five minutes work! Thanks for your interest.