Motorised Valves 101

  • Thread starter Lincsbodger
  • Start date
L

Lincsbodger

Ok, heres the problem.

In the loft is a manual gate valve which cuts feed from the boiler to all the radiators when closed, excepting for the heating coil in the hot tank and one radiator in the conservatory. The idea is when turned off you can still make hot water with the CH boiler in the summer withour heating up all the rads. The snag is that to turn it on and off involves a trip into the loft, and thats not easy for various reasons.

I would like to replace it with a motorised valve, such that i can have a switch in the kitchen next to the boiler (where all the wiring is) and turn it on and off electrically.

Now, a plumber friend has given me a almost new motorised valve, but it has 5 wires. The brown and blue wires go to a syncron motor, the grey and orange go to a micro switch inside the motor, and theres an earth. It is one pipe in and one pipe out ( 2 port ? )

Can i simply apply mains power to the brown/blue pair to open and close the valve., when the lever on the side of the valve is set to AUTO? If not, what do i do with the grey/orange pair ?

The idea is foolproof because even if the valve fails closed, we still get circulation through one rad and the tank coil.
 
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The brown (live ) motors the valve open , blue obviously is neutral , the other wire's grey would be permanant live , orange switch live , in your instance if you just want to open & close ignore these 2 wire's , u need brown , blue , Earth !
 
L

Lincsbodger

The brown (live ) motors the valve open , blue obviously is neutral , the other wire's grey would be permanant live , orange switch live , in your instance if you just want to open & close ignore these 2 wire's , u need brown , blue , Earth !

Ok thanks, thats what i thought, but i didnt want to start experimenting in situ!!!
 
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Motorised valves consume about 3W of electricity when open because the motor is powered up, but in a stalled position. The instructions normally say that they should not be left permanently energised to prevent damage to the motor. For an example, see the note on page 2 of the Honeywell instructions click here

Therefore, the valve should be linked to your central heating programmer / thermostat so that in winter, it is not powered up 24/7
 

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