Moving a gas restrictor elbow?

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Hi there,

What would you suggest I do about a gas restrictor elbow/pipe that is awkwardly positioned and gets kicked easily?

I've included some pictures. Ideally, I'd like it tucked away, where it didn't get bashed by the hoover.


The floor is concrete (screed over blocks, 1st floor) with the gas pipe (steel, I think) buried in the screed. 1968 build.

Obviously I wouldn't dream of doing it myself! I'm not that stupid. But I'd value your advice so I can weigh up the options. Or maybe I should leave it alone?


Many thanks
 
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Leave it alone it needs to be accessible for servicing the fire.
Moving it, even just back to the wall is a fiddly not to say expensive job.
Look on it as a good excuse to leave the hoovering to another day :D
 
I always feel those are greatly at risk of getting damaged by heavy handed vacuuming!
 
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When was it fitted. The install is a disgrace, and if it is recent, get him back to do it to a professional standard.
 
Is that hearth sitting on the pipe? if so it's AR, soon to be ID with a gas escape when its worn through the copper.
 
When was it fitted. The install is a disgrace, and if it is recent, get him back to do it to a professional standard.

Thanks FiremanT. the installation is well over 20 years old. When you say the install is a 'disgrace' are you talking about the position of the restrictor elbow, which presumably is original to the property being built in 1968, or do you mean the routing of the supply pipe under the hearth?

I'm thinking about replacing the fire with something more modern and efficient. This would be a good opportunity to get things changed. But the question is whether I should try and get the restrictor elbow moved at the same time, or do you think it's too much trouble?
 
Is that hearth sitting on the pipe? if so it's AR, soon to be ID with a gas escape when its worn through the copper.

Thanks gavgas. the hearth is raised up about an inch and the pipe passes through a gap in the support and over to the fire in the hollow void between the hearth slab and the solid floor. There's no weight or stress on the pipe and it's been that way since forever.
 
Thanks FiremanT. the installation is well over 20 years old. When you say the install is a 'disgrace' are you talking about the position of the restrictor elbow, which presumably is original to the property being built in 1968, or do you mean the routing of the supply pipe under the hearth?

I'm thinking about replacing the fire with something more modern and efficient. This would be a good opportunity to get things changed. But the question is whether I should try and get the restrictor elbow moved at the same time, or do you think it's too much trouble?
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Both, really. Until recently, my main area of work was, in fact, fires and fireplaces. The floor should be dug out to expose the nearest threaded joint, The floor can then be chased from that point to the fireplace opening. The pipe is ran in the chase to the rear of the opening, and fed to the fire from the rear, All fires now have an isolation point behind the fret, so you need see no pipe at all. But beware, there era plenty of "gas men" who will leave the restrictor elbow exposed to some extent, so make sure you are clear as to their intentions when selecting an engineer.

Having said all that, the floorwork is subject to the construction.

And, yes, your fire is massively inefficient.
 
So what is the alternatives to a restrictor elbow?

Are nursery taps the solution for installations?

In see them as very vulnerable to babies fiddling and so many are found on old fires with no FFD.
 
A proper nursery or asylum tap was designed for just that situation the key is removable. But not something you would use here.
 
So what is the alternatives to a restrictor elbow?

Are nursery taps the solution for installations?

In see them as very vulnerable to babies fiddling and so many are found on old fires with no FFD.

Tony, Once again, you are missing the point. It doesn't matter what valve is there, it is in the way of normal living. I see this sort of thing al the time, and, frankly, the the difference between a proper jib and carp like that is about an hour, tops. IF you know what should be done, and how to do it.
 

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