Moving an Earthing Rod

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Hi All

our electricity supply comes in via overhead line and we have an earthing rod at the rear of the house. We are on a sloping site so that the rear wall below damp course is around 4ft in height next to the exposed rod.

It has been decided by powers greater than I that this would be the ideal location for a raised plant bed. If this were built the earthing rod would be buried by a foot or so of soil.

So, do I have to move the rod or can it be left and buried in situ?
If it has to be moved, can I do this myself or is it a more complex procedure requiring professional intervention?

thanks all
 
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The top of the rod should be left accessable for testing - usually done by housing the top of the rod in a pit box - bit like the underground stopcocks with a cover over.

Rods can be moved but need testing to ensure your new rod/position still gioves you a decent earth. The average DIYer does not have the necessary testing equipment.

Probably best to get it moved and tell the greater powers that her raised flower bed has just got a bit more expensive!
 
An earth electrode should really be in a proper pit and accesible for inspection, etc

You're going to have to get someone in I'm afraid, when an earth electrode is put in, the effectiveness needs to be tested, either with a dedicated earth electrode tester, or as most sparkies do, with a normal earth fault loop tester.

It goes without saying that the installation should be isolated while there is no means of earthing connected during the work

There could be things that need bringing upto standard inside, you don't say how old the installation is, but if its from the 70's, you could have an old volt opperated ELCB, instead of a modern current RCD, main equipotential bonds below standard etc

Have you considered asking the supply authority if TNC-S (PME) earthing is in place on the local network and if it is, could they provide you with an earthing terminal?
 
Thanks for the info

To save moving the earth electrode, could I put something like a 4" dia drainage pipe over it with a cover, so that it remains accessible (not buried). The pipe would be around 2 feet long, with the top of the rod 12" -15" below the surface of the new soil.

thanks again
 
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In principle I dont see why not - but in practice how do I get my arm down a two foot length of 4" pipe to connect the test leads - my arms not quite that long. As long as you can get an arm down and clip a test lead on it should be OK. But just think how awkward some water stopcocks are.

Others with more TT experience may have different views.
 
I'll delee that, I should read all the posts first before making a suggestion
 
In principle I dont see why not - but in practice how do I get my arm down a two foot length of 4" pipe to connect the test leads - my arms not quite that long. As long as you can get an arm down and clip a test lead on it should be OK. But just think how awkward some water stopcocks are.

Others with more TT experience may have different views.

We're going to need a bigger pipe!

Thanks again
 
Would it not be possible to drive a very long rod next to the existing rod. If the new rod is four feet longer than the present rod then the connection point will be level with the new soil surface.

<< just re-read OP and see it need not be four feet longer >>

By regs it should be tested but common sense says that as it is in the same location as the existing one and has four more feet of soil it will be better.

That said it should still be tested.
 

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