My new invention for underfloor heating...seriously.

[silverback]

For suspended floor, I would use 8mm copper which you can bend in a continuous length which terminates at your main flow and return pipes, controlled by a two port zone valve and pump programmable roomstat in that room.

Insulate between the joists beneath the heating circuit unless it is a floor between two heating zones in which case I'd not insulate.

I don't see the need for a blend valve.

No insulation, this would be as effective as having no heating at all, the purpose of the insulation beneath is to prevent the heat been wasted heating the floor void up, it is also best to have aluminium diffuser plates to sprtead the heat evenly, but if he wants to make his system up with copper pipe, he can, then compare temperature and efficiency with my correctly installed Jupiter heating system, I know which one will perform best, at a cheaper running cost and a more controable

Oh by the way UFH with copper tube is not new, so I don't think you can claim that it is a new idea, but times have moved on and progress has been made

 

[poorandbroke]

How would you control the temperature, how would you insulate beneath the pipes, how would you support the pipework, how would you insure the heat radiated across the floor evenly, at the end of the day if you want to make some rubbishy underfloor heating system for your own house, go ahead, who cares.

1. Room thermostat
2. Normal underfloor insulation available from any builders yard
3. Wood fixed between each joist with the pipe cleated to it, simple
4. Who said the heat needed to radiate evenly. it doesn't radiate evenly with supa dupa profession installations so why should I do it, eh?
5. Having ovetr the years signed my name to thousands of Lloyds insurance documents for the correct installation of electrical equipment offshore which stay in force for the life time of the rig/platform I think I know the difference between good and bad installation - I've never done a domestic central heating system though, hence my post.

 

[Paul Barker]

Yes we use rolls of 8mm pipe for gas fires, the fittings are readily available. You would want to use a continuous length and termninate in an access panel or above ground. Maybe a blend valve to save the family pets, then it would take longer to heat from cold. In any case since you would have full room stat control the blend valve is only required if there are pets to save.

Make sure rest of system is designed appropriately i.e. is there also a need for an autobipass? Not a new issue but one to take into account.

I have a cellar under a cold dining room. It's a toss up whether I sling a very large wall rad (which I got for a fiver from the merchants 'cause it had a mark on it) under the room appropriately insulated beneath and aside, put a Smith's ch fan convector in, or get up on the roof of my four story house and open up and re-pot the chimney for another pallet burning open fire.

Since the gymungus wall rad is blocking the conservatory that might win, only downside is loss of space in cellar.

And before anyone says it, no I am not putting a steaming great big array of flat metalk bars the full hight of my wall and half the width, can't think of anything more likely to put off future buyers, even if there are plenty of mugs buying these horrendous things today!

 

[poorandbroke]

Because the room would get too hot there being a greater amount of radiating surface and with the hot water flow rate being the same.

"greater" than what? "the same" as what?

Compared to a normal radiator as I mentioned in the original post

 

[silverback]

So when you lay the insulation, then proceed to solder all your tees, you will melt the insulation.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

How would you signing documents for electrical systems, give you an insight into what is a good or bad heating installation

Also how is the room stat going to control the ufh, how are you going to regulate the flow temperature to the ufh

 

[Nige F]

So when you lay the insulation, then proceed to solder all your tees, you will melt the insulation.

not with an asbe heatproof mat under each one while soldering

 

[silverback]

Also with your design how will the system be balnced, all the heat would travel the quickest room through the first flow and out the first return, so the floor would never heat the room

 

[Diyisfun]

wood is an insulator..fitting a heating system between wood & where the heat is required is wasted heat, hence inefficency. BUT ..if laying pipe is cheaper than buyin rads, you could say in short term it may be cost efficeint, but its unefficient

 

[Paul Barker]

Diyisfun you are arguing against ufh all together that isn't the question, the question is, since I want ufh but can't afford it can I do it diy?

All the objections since my post are irrelevant if cold and broke follows my advice to the letter, they are all addressed.

It is good to point out to him the failings of his design, but it is better to offer him a viable alternative.

 

[ChrisR]

it doesn't radiate evenly with supa dupa profession installations so why should I do it, eh?

There are laws to say you should do a sensible job but you can get away without. You are entirely free to be a prat.

Pro initallations you decry do benefit from knowledge and experience and product development.
Sure you can lash something together and it'll heat things up, but it'll be a mess.
New invention? Don't be silly!

 

[Diyisfun]

Anyone can do what they want, but if thats the case do it, Why is a question being asked?