Myson Apollo boiler trips electricity/power
- Thread starter angry_gekko
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Unless its getting wet then I doubt that is the problem.
Reading the original posting again there is a possible descrepancy in that the OP never made it clear if it was an earth leakage trip or an overcurrent trip.
Laymen never bother to differentiate but in fault diagnosis its vital to know which.
Tony
Reading the original posting again there is a possible descrepancy in that the OP never made it clear if it was an earth leakage trip or an overcurrent trip.
Laymen never bother to differentiate but in fault diagnosis its vital to know which.
Tony
I am first going to isolate the pump by fitting a standard 13 Amp plug to it and plugging it into a socket with it's own RCD(the one I used with my lawnmower) just in case it's the pump that's causing this problem.
I will let you know the outcome.
I will let you know the outcome.
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UPDATE SOLVED: So I changed the pump anyway cos I figured if I get a new boiler I would need a new pump anyhow.
What I actually did was change the pump and set the thermostat backto LOW.
Then I managed to run it for 1 hour no problems the boiler was switching on and off no trouble.
Then I switched it back to HIGH and ten minutes in it trip the RCD again., I noticed that it never switched off during that time.
So a short trip to the parts department to get a HIGH sensor and replaced it, now all is fine on HIGH too.
Job done.
So conclusion is that it was simply my HIGH sensor needed replacing.
What I actually did was change the pump and set the thermostat backto LOW.
Then I managed to run it for 1 hour no problems the boiler was switching on and off no trouble.
Then I switched it back to HIGH and ten minutes in it trip the RCD again., I noticed that it never switched off during that time.
So a short trip to the parts department to get a HIGH sensor and replaced it, now all is fine on HIGH too.
Job done.
So conclusion is that it was simply my HIGH sensor needed replacing.
N
namsag
IF you read this post properly you will realise there are several things it could be.
Explain what is happening with yours
Explain what is happening with yours
Since the fault was an earth leakage fault then presumably the actual stat had damaged insulation?
Was this visible on the removed component?
Tony
griffo7:
I found where it was located by downloading the following installation manual:
From earlier in this thread: http://85.189.44.185/Baxi/
Myson>boiler>Apollo Fanfare>30/50 S>Installation Instructions>Apollo 30/50.
Section 21. shows and exploded view, see Arrow B for the location of the sensors.
Basically it in the top right of the boiler under a metal cover attached to the out flow pipe.
namsag:
I figured something was getting way too hot and causing the RCD to trip not entirely sure what component it would be but the new sensor now prevents the over-heating and so no more tripping.
I do wonder if some of the other sensors should have first kicked in to shut down the boiler.
Agile:
No noticeable defects to the sensor that I could see, however I did not electrically test the component once remove.
Again I am not really sure if it was the stat or something else that caused the trip, I think it was something else as the stat was simply failing to do its job of shutting off the boiler once the High temp was reached.
Anyone else have any theory’s I would like to hear them 'namsag'?
I found where it was located by downloading the following installation manual:
From earlier in this thread: http://85.189.44.185/Baxi/
Myson>boiler>Apollo Fanfare>30/50 S>Installation Instructions>Apollo 30/50.
Section 21. shows and exploded view, see Arrow B for the location of the sensors.
Basically it in the top right of the boiler under a metal cover attached to the out flow pipe.
namsag:
I figured something was getting way too hot and causing the RCD to trip not entirely sure what component it would be but the new sensor now prevents the over-heating and so no more tripping.
I do wonder if some of the other sensors should have first kicked in to shut down the boiler.
Agile:
No noticeable defects to the sensor that I could see, however I did not electrically test the component once remove.
Again I am not really sure if it was the stat or something else that caused the trip, I think it was something else as the stat was simply failing to do its job of shutting off the boiler once the High temp was reached.
Anyone else have any theory’s I would like to hear them 'namsag'?
I agree with you that it was probably another component which was causing the trip but only when it was hot.
Preventing the boiler getting hot has stopped the tripping ( for the time being ! )
However, be aware that there is probably still a potential fault elsewhere which has not been identified.
Tony
Preventing the boiler getting hot has stopped the tripping ( for the time being ! )
However, be aware that there is probably still a potential fault elsewhere which has not been identified.
Tony
Mine was the original post and I apologise for not replying when I found a solution (i guess I was worried that it was only a temporary fix!).
I too believe that the fault was caused by components getting too hot, which would explain why I was able to get a the boiler to work ok with the front panel hanging down.
In my case, one time after the boiler had tripped the power I reset the breaker and the supressor imeadatley blew (loud bang and was visably charred!) The supressor is the white plastic tube ~50 mm in length and it prevents interfearance with TV signals.
I replaced this component (part number 402A029) and ever since then the boiler has been fine.
I too believe that the fault was caused by components getting too hot, which would explain why I was able to get a the boiler to work ok with the front panel hanging down.
In my case, one time after the boiler had tripped the power I reset the breaker and the supressor imeadatley blew (loud bang and was visably charred!) The supressor is the white plastic tube ~50 mm in length and it prevents interfearance with TV signals.
I replaced this component (part number 402A029) and ever since then the boiler has been fine.
I have a similar problem. My system can run for days with no problem whether it is on Heating or Hot water or both. Then when I'm not looking the 3A fuse blows.
My grundfos pump seems good and system has always had an anticorrosion additive to prevent accumulation of corrosion debris.
I have a 30mA ground leakage system on the house supply and so am confident that there is no earthing fault.
You said that you had narrowed it down to the "high limit switch" Did you make a final conclusion on the fault cause?
To isolate the problem I intend fitting individual temporary in-line fuses to both the boiler power feed wire and the "Boiler ON" feed wire. If just the Power feed fuse blows then the problem is likely occuring only when the boiler is hot and the "Pump Overrun" or "High/Low" temp stats are active.
My grundfos pump seems good and system has always had an anticorrosion additive to prevent accumulation of corrosion debris.
I have a 30mA ground leakage system on the house supply and so am confident that there is no earthing fault.
You said that you had narrowed it down to the "high limit switch" Did you make a final conclusion on the fault cause?
To isolate the problem I intend fitting individual temporary in-line fuses to both the boiler power feed wire and the "Boiler ON" feed wire. If just the Power feed fuse blows then the problem is likely occuring only when the boiler is hot and the "Pump Overrun" or "High/Low" temp stats are active.
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I have had two years tracking a randon fault on Myson Apollo, I changed all electrical components,Pump Thermostats High and Low temp,Gas Valve.Water tank stat, Diverter Solinoid. Mains only tripped on Central Heating on high Boiler temp. Even had floor up. Just found the problem.
IT WAS THE WIRING LOOM THAT RUNS DOWN THE BACK OF THE BOILER TO THE HIGH AND LOW TEMP BOILER STATS SITTING ON TOP OF HEAT EXCHANGER. It had been trapped and sheered the copper wiring allowing it to arc within the sheathing, I had had this out a year ago and freed it from metal work, Just replaced the loom and found a compressed area on cable. The boiler is now 20 years old but loathed to change it as it such a simple little unit. Hope this helps someone?
IT WAS THE WIRING LOOM THAT RUNS DOWN THE BACK OF THE BOILER TO THE HIGH AND LOW TEMP BOILER STATS SITTING ON TOP OF HEAT EXCHANGER. It had been trapped and sheered the copper wiring allowing it to arc within the sheathing, I had had this out a year ago and freed it from metal work, Just replaced the loom and found a compressed area on cable. The boiler is now 20 years old but loathed to change it as it such a simple little unit. Hope this helps someone?
This post altered as found correct fault see other post.
Supressor fault
Supressor fault
Well i got it like so many others when i open electrics boiler works fine?
I swapped out the supressor and lengthen the leads to move outside the wiring box, which does get hot. I think it all started due to a blocked heat exchanger building heat up in the lower part of boiler and when a trip switch operated the damaged supressor took to much current to earth trying to supress it. I cleaned out the exchanger with half a hacksaw blade to allow heat to do its job. Running on high now nice and toasty. I do help this helps someone?
I swapped out the supressor and lengthen the leads to move outside the wiring box, which does get hot. I think it all started due to a blocked heat exchanger building heat up in the lower part of boiler and when a trip switch operated the damaged supressor took to much current to earth trying to supress it. I cleaned out the exchanger with half a hacksaw blade to allow heat to do its job. Running on high now nice and toasty. I do help this helps someone?
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