Need for underfloor heating + getting finished floors level

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I'm in the middle of extending/renovating my house and plan to have three upstairs bathrooms tiled (walls and floor) and the other upstairs rooms floored with wood laminate. The floor joists are 400mm spaced and the floor is 20mm T&G chipboard.

I was discussing this with a friend yesterday and he asked me if I was planning underfloor heating in the bathrooms. I said that I had not planned to and he was surprised. So it's got me thinking.

Is underfloor heating really needed in upstairs tiled floors? I had thought that since those tiles are on wood, they will not get as cold as those on concreted?

If I do go ahead with underfloor heating, what do I need to think about in regard to ensuring that the finished floors are level (i.e. the tiled bathroom floors are the same level as the laminated bedroom floors)?

Having done a bit of research I see that tiling onto chipboard is not recommended, so maybe I need the bathroom floors replaced with plywood. Is this going to allow me to get the floors level? 20mm does not seem much to play with and I have seen recommendations that 25mm ply should be used.

I guess it should be in the other forum, but how much flexibility do I have with laminate flooring to increase it's height to match the tiled floor?

(By the way I don't plan to do this work myself, I just want to understand it before discussing with my builder).
 
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I had marble floors in my little first floor, loo, laid on 18mm WBP. They were freezing to touch on days when the GCH had not kicked in, sometimes so cold that they caused a headache (!).

I never considered it a real problem, but would in the future, consider installing Underfloor electric heating, if it is cheap and easy to do.

Marble is a bit slippery too. Perhaps some kind of granular finish tiling next time!

Regards
 
Underfloor heating in a tiled bathroom is very pleasant on the feet.

However if you are thinking of using electric UFH, you must use an electrician who is a member of a Self Certification Scheme as bathroom electrics are notifiable under Building Regulations in England and Wales. IIRC you also have to have an earthed metallic mesh over the elements in bathroom UFH. Water, electricity and skin are an unhappy combination.
 
i do reccommend under floor heating, and if your getting a tiler in, they will know an electrician to wire it all in for you, i for one have a very very very nice man who does it for me, like most trades, if you need something doing your not qualified to do, we know a guy who can.
 
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Underfloor heating is ideal for a bathroom. if the room is cool even with central heating the tiles could be cool. Cold air is heavy and sinks hot air rises so the tiles can feel quite cold.

Look at manufacturers specifications on what material is best to have as a base. Only put heating in walking areas such as in front of basin bathj shower entrance. Depends on how big the room is of course...
 
Thanks for the replies - seems you all agree that it is a good idea.

Any comments on the levelling?
 
As long as the boards are screwed and not nailed to the joists you will be fine. I would recommend they are screwed every 200 mm along the joists through the boards as your joists are 400 mm wide. The recommendation is 300mm centres in a check board effect across the floor to give you suitable rigidity. Dont skimp on adhesives or buy ready mixed as they nearly always fail after a few months. Prime the floor with BAL apd and fix the tiles with BAL Fastflex and finish with a BAL superflex grout and the jobs a beauty.You may get a slight height difference between the floor levels but shops such as Topps do door threshold strips to counteract this problem.
 
Oh and i forgot to mention that a product called Magnum enerfoil is now available and is glued directly to the floor before tiling and is only 0.2mm thick. Saves all the mither of big bulky cables and silly floor heights and gives off ample heat for your floor.superb stuff.
 
I had marble floors in my little first floor, loo, laid on 18mm WBP. They were freezing to touch on days when the GCH had not kicked in, sometimes so cold that they caused a headache (!).

I never considered it a real problem, but would in the future, consider installing Underfloor electric heating, if it is cheap and easy to do.

Marble is a bit slippery too. Perhaps some kind of granular finish tiling next time!

Regards

hello if you are tiling on chipboard you can get away with single part flex and add some add flex, and i no that when this has been dun it has lasted for over 10 years. but this is not reconned; if your boards are 20 mm you can remove it and replace it with 16/18mm and tile on that with 2 part flex. your tiles will be cold to the foot, i do hope i have helped
 
I had marble floors in my little first floor, loo, laid on 18mm WBP. They were freezing to touch on days when the GCH had not kicked in, sometimes so cold that they caused a headache (!).

I never considered it a real problem, but would in the future, consider installing Underfloor electric heating, if it is cheap and easy to do.

Marble is a bit slippery too. Perhaps some kind of granular finish tiling next time!

Regards

hello if you are tiling on chipboard you can get away with single part flex and add some add flex, and i no that when this has been dun it has lasted for over 10 years. but this is not reconned; if your boards are 20 mm you can remove it and replace it with 16/18mm and tile on that with 2 part flex. your tiles will be cold to the foot, i do hope i have helped
I see you're new mate - please be careful what advice you give. Try and give bomb-proof advice, and not what might just work.
 
Definitely go for UFH. I've got a bathroom with stone floors and it is COLD under foot even with the central heating on. The UFH is lovely!

tiler jase are you who I think you are? :D

PP
 

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