Nest Heatlink Stopped Working? Intergas Boiler

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Hi, I recently switched to a new Virgin Superhub 3 and around the same time the Heatlink stopped working. I have reconnected to the new router on the thermostat but it just won't connect to the Heatlink.

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There is no light at all on the Heatlink. Have checked L + N which is showing 240v so should be power. Not sure what the other 2 wires are for. Have tried pressing/long press does nothing.

Anyone know what's up? Thanks.
 
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Could be a duff heat link. Is there a panel on the boiler that drops down? Did you test the voltage at the heat link?
 
If there's 230v across L&N at the Heat Link but you've got no lights then the Heat Link is dead.

Worth noting that you have a lovely OpenTherm boiler and a Nest which can control it via OpenTherm, but it's connected via the on/off terminals. You'll get better efficency out of your boiler if it's connected via OT. You'll need a pro to do this.
 
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Not sure what OpenTherm is but I hardly used the central heating last winter so maybe no point of switching to it.

Yes there is 230v across L+N. I had a look and doesn't look like it's possible to even buy a new Heat Link? It's just coming up to 2 years old I think.

And no the fused outlet is what I installed to power the boiler... but haven't actually connected it yet. It's plugged into a normal socket.
 
No, heat links aren't available as spares, you have to buy a complete package. Might still be under warranty, call Nest Technical Support to find out
 
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If there's 230v across L&N at the Heat Link but you've got no lights then the Heat Link is dead.

Worth noting that you have a lovely OpenTherm boiler and a Nest which can control it via OpenTherm, but it's connected via the on/off terminals. You'll get better efficency out of your boiler if it's connected via OT. You'll need a pro to do this.

Why do you need a pro to connect the low voltage opentherm lines, is there additional settings required to input to the boiler?

@op the opentherm is definitely worthwhile wiring in if you can
 
Why do you need a pro to connect the low voltage opentherm lines, is there additional settings required to input to the boiler?
Requires removal of the room-sealing boiler casing to access the terminals, which should only be done by a competent person, preferably someone familiar with these boilers as there's a bit of a knack to getting the casing off!
 

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