New sockets in lathe and plaster

str

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Our current sockets are fitted into our skirting and due to a new wooden floor being installed, the plan is also to renew the skirtings, so plan to get the sockets moved up into the wall.

Whilst I will be getting an electrician to fit the sockets, I was planning to running the new cables (not connected!) and fit the back boxes but unsure how best to fit in the lathe and plaster wall?

I won't be able to get into he wall to fit a noggin unless I open it up which I would like to try and keep the damage minimal!

Any suggestions?
 
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Find the studs and attach the back box onto or into the side of the stud.

Alternatively, if you cut your hole very carefully and the lath and plaster isn't too thick dry lining boxes can work.
 
str - two methods:

1. use bradawl or v.small screwdriver through the plaster to locate studwork below. Position holes for your boxes there so you can anchor them the studs; you'll need to remove some wood from the studs to get the depth for the boxes.

2. swivel block method. Cut your holes for the boxes. Take a length of timber and either cut out a notch equal in height (or width*) of your back box and whose depth is equal to the depth of the box minus the plaster & lath combo. A decent dab of building adhesive (Gripfil or similar) at each end of this timber piece then slip it through the cut out hole in the wall swivel it then pull it forward to touch the back of the laths. Insert a couple of screws through the plaster/lath and into the timber batten to hold in place whilst the Gripfil dries. You fix your back boxes to these battens. You can create the notch either by removing wood or by adding a couple of blocks at either end. Tip: insert a screw into the centre of the batten before slipping into the hole - it'll act as a sort of handle and could prevent you dropping the batten inside the wall cavity.

*the timber batten can be horizontal or vertical
 
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And another possible option may be the MT (Marshall Tuflex) dry lining boxes. One type of the above allows extra depth for the side lugs to catch on. The 'standard' type ones Screwfix Et Al do, would likely be no good as the depth of the L&P would be too thick.

You will have to be careful cutting the holes in the L&P mind.

Whichever way you do it, watch out you do not snag the saw on the lath's too much when cutting, as they can be quite springy and it is easy to pull it away from the plaster inside the wall. This would weaken the plaster, which is often quite dry and brittle to start with...

I am quite liking the swivel block method...
 
For cutting the lathe without causing damage, maybe a Bosch all-rounder or similar would be helpful?
 
For cutting the lathe without causing damage, maybe a Bosch all-rounder or similar would be helpful?

EXACTO-MUNDO!!

Thats what I often resort to using. Much cleaner, nicer cut with it.

Only downside is the dust gets airborne, so you need to keep a hoover close by. Small price to pay though if it makes the job easier.
 
In order of preference:

1. Locate on a stud
2. Use the swivel block method (loving the name!) - but run 2 battens vertically as you will have some intact lathes to screw into rather than one or two you've cut....
3. Very deep plasterboard back box - but even then the wings might not go back far enough if the plaster is deep PLUS over time I don't reckon the L and P would hold if you are plugging//unplugging. I only tend to use this method with light switches

AND for all methods, use a multi master (or similar) to avoid too much damage to the lathes/plaster

Good luck!

SB
 

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