New to Hive - Question

[Hardcore]

Hi - I've bought a second hand SLT3 and SLR2D with the idea to control my underfloor heating as my current programmable thermostat loses its program if there is a power loss which can happen over the winter.

Anyhow, at the moment i do not have a hub as I thought I could do what I want without a hub but so far I've not managed to do it.

I'm after everyday schedule as follows

6am 20 deg c
11am 18 deg c (with chance to overide to 20 deg c or whatever I want using knob)
5pm 20 deg c (automatically overiding any setting I made above with knob)
11pm 18 deg c (this stays at 18 deg c until 6am next day)

Is this possible without using hub and app...if not is it poissible with a hub and app?


Now just for info another question.
I read in this forum how to modify SLR2D so that the common (internally wired) terminals can be disconnected from suppy 240Vac to allow relays (ok both same common supply) to basically be volt free. I've removed the SLR2D 2 screws behind the fixing plate and before I try and prise open the receiver is there some advice on how I open it. I sort of expected another screw somewhere but cannot find any.

Why do I want to do this? My system is a little complicated and I'm wondering if I can open the receiver, remove relays and use the HW and CH on/off signals to drive external relays as I want the common for each to be separate. I realise now I should have bought 2 separate recievers and presumably 2 SLT3's?

Just looking to mitigate costs.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[ericmark]

There is a delay with underfloor heating before it heats a room, so most thermostat sold to work with underfloor heating either are specials for UFH or have a setting for UFH.

Most electric under floor heating is one high current so needs 16 amp contacts, and needs sensors in the floor to stop overheating, except the chemical versions for latter.

Most water UFH has a manifold with the valves, so wireless thermostat versions often used, with a hub at the manifold. Unless using the three channel thermostats the thermostat for underfloor heating would not include DHW, and the single channel thermostats are volt free.

The UFH hub often looks as shown, and are basically a bank of relays, as to the schedule, UFH takes so long to heat up and cool down, seems a little pointless. With Myson radiators (fan assisted) you can set up the as required heating, as they are fast, the problem is getting a boiler to work with them, as they don't control water flow. Normal radiators the less water they contain the better as then the faster they will warm up, and for 6 hour or more blocks, you can set a schedule, using the electronic TRV heads, this also allows the use of a smaller boiler, as the whole output could the theory be directed to one room. However, UFH takes at least 2 hours to heat a room, as I found from bitter experience, and also the room is slow to cool, since so little heat is transferred with the limits to floor temperature, they really need things like heat recovery units for fresh air, and really good insulation specially in the floor.

So a good deal of DIY UFH did not have the insulation fitted in the floor, when we were house hunting, any home with UFH was an immediate rejection, unless they could show insulation had been installed.

The hypocaust has been used for a long time, but I think there was a good reason why it became less popular, great for an old peoples home, where you do not want hot radiators they can touch, and the temperature throughout the home is kept static night and day. But for most homes the reaction time is too slow, where heat pumps are used, then it gets around the problem of massive radiators due to low water temperatures, but with a heat pump, the electric supply to the home is not large enough any way to use the as required method, so they run 24/7.