I am going to replace the hot air system with a wet system, and would like to ask what type of system people would recommend. The house is a typical 70's style 4 bed detached and British Gas have quoted for a condensing boiler and radiators. I have been told by a local builder that people are now going for 'pressurised' systems that do not need a header tank. Sombody else has suggested a combination system. I would like a modern system - set different times for water and heating, digital room thermostat, etc. Also, would it be ok to locate the boiler in the garage (oh for a nice quiet system!). Sorry for all the questions but I really would be grateful for any advice from those that know. Thank you.
New Wet Heating System - what type to go for
- Thread starter hztm2008
- Start date
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Nearly all boilers fitted today will have to be condensing.
It is up to you personally whether yo go for a heat only boiler and a seperate hot water cylinder or a combi.
Combis will only supply one hot outlet at a time and will the cheapest option to install. They do not need any storage tanks in the loft.
A heat only system boiler with an unvented HW cylinder is usually the best option if you have very good cold mains pressure and flow rate, but will be the most expensive option.
A system boiler with traditional vented HW cylinder will save a bit of money but will rely on the height of the storage tank above all your taps for the amount of pressure from the hot taps, although you could fit a shower pump.
Combis and unvented cylinders cannot have (usually won't need it) a booster pump fitted.
You really need an experienced installer to come round, survey your property and options and advise accordingly.
It is up to you personally whether yo go for a heat only boiler and a seperate hot water cylinder or a combi.
Combis will only supply one hot outlet at a time and will the cheapest option to install. They do not need any storage tanks in the loft.
A heat only system boiler with an unvented HW cylinder is usually the best option if you have very good cold mains pressure and flow rate, but will be the most expensive option.
A system boiler with traditional vented HW cylinder will save a bit of money but will rely on the height of the storage tank above all your taps for the amount of pressure from the hot taps, although you could fit a shower pump.
Combis and unvented cylinders cannot have (usually won't need it) a booster pump fitted.
You really need an experienced installer to come round, survey your property and options and advise accordingly.
You could replace your warm air system with a new warm air boiler.
The Economaire is quieter, varispeed equipped and modulating. It can be fitted with electrostatic filtration that goes down to the size of a tobacco smoke particle.
Warm air is not out of date, most commercial buildings and shops have it fitted today (when was the last time you say a radiator in John Lewis or Sainsburys) and it is generally more efficient than radiators.
Fitters that tell you otherwise don't hold a CORGI warm air ticket.
You can add a pressurised water heater to a new warm air unit, no problem.
By all means rip it out if you fancy radiators, but don't do it because you think it is out of date. It isn't.
The Economaire is quieter, varispeed equipped and modulating. It can be fitted with electrostatic filtration that goes down to the size of a tobacco smoke particle.
Warm air is not out of date, most commercial buildings and shops have it fitted today (when was the last time you say a radiator in John Lewis or Sainsburys) and it is generally more efficient than radiators.
Fitters that tell you otherwise don't hold a CORGI warm air ticket.
You can add a pressurised water heater to a new warm air unit, no problem.
By all means rip it out if you fancy radiators, but don't do it because you think it is out of date. It isn't.
Hi and thanks for the advice. We are looking to change away from warm air mainly because of the noise. The return air intake is in our main hall and is noisy as the air is pulled in through the vent. We have a J&S J55-65 Modair boiler with filter which is 10 years old and is still like new. J&S have told us that this is the best boiler for us and that the only way to reduce noise would be to increase size of ductway (no space to do this) - our return ductway is 14" x 8" and J&S now recommend 12"x12" which would not appear to make much difference. The system is serviced each year by British Gas.
Other annoyances are upstairs vents in the ceiling - hot heads and cold feet!, one timer for both the water and heating. We might also want to sell the house in the future and estate agents have told us that warm air would not be popular - people now expect radiators ???
However, if we could sort the noise then we would probably keep it
Other annoyances are upstairs vents in the ceiling - hot heads and cold feet!, one timer for both the water and heating. We might also want to sell the house in the future and estate agents have told us that warm air would not be popular - people now expect radiators ???
However, if we could sort the noise then we would probably keep it
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As Simon says, I for one cannot offer any advice on warm air as I don't hold a ticket for this. Not many do these days it seems.
From your OP I didn't realise you need a comparison, only what sort of wet system to go for.
From your OP I didn't realise you need a comparison, only what sort of wet system to go for.
Hi, I am not looking for comparison - only wanted some advice on type of wet system to go for. Just need to heat house and water. British Gas have quoted for condensing boiler, new hot water tank and radiators. Local builder says go for pressurised system. I don't know much about it all and am just looking for a little guidance on what people generally go for now days.
British Gas seemed more interested in their convenience rather than my requirements - going to get a couple of local heating companies to come in for advice and quotation now.
Many thanks for all info here.
British Gas seemed more interested in their convenience rather than my requirements - going to get a couple of local heating companies to come in for advice and quotation now.
Many thanks for all info here.
Dave, my comment about warm air qualifications was not aimed at you!
The difference in the return air duct size is 30% and will make a difference to the noise. Also as the fan bearings wear out it will get noisy.
The ceiling mounted duucts need return air gaps at the base of the doors, sometimes these are wrongly fitted at the top of the doors or in the fanlights above, this will give you the cold feet scenario.
However your comments about resale are absolutely right.
The difference in the return air duct size is 30% and will make a difference to the noise. Also as the fan bearings wear out it will get noisy.
The ceiling mounted duucts need return air gaps at the base of the doors, sometimes these are wrongly fitted at the top of the doors or in the fanlights above, this will give you the cold feet scenario.
However your comments about resale are absolutely right.
Thanks simond for your info...
Upstairs the air comes out of grills in the ceiling, and the return air vents are in the wall ABOVE the doors - this is wrong? you say they should be at the bottom of the door - so there should be a vent in the actual door?
Thanks for your help
Upstairs the air comes out of grills in the ceiling, and the return air vents are in the wall ABOVE the doors - this is wrong? you say they should be at the bottom of the door - so there should be a vent in the actual door?
Thanks for your help
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