Newbee internal rendering - my first!

[roughcaster]

I would have put the 2 wooden dots in a "vertical" position.
Also,, "i wouldn't" have used them for the scratch coat. By using them for the scratch coat, then leaving them in for the top coat, when you remove the dots at the end of the rendering, you will have to patch up "two deep areas" where the dots were, in one thick coat, and risk them slumping, and showing as a patch. I know everyone has to learn.

 

[roughcaster]

I should have said to you earlier Newbee, your job's looking good, nice and clean around the edges too,

A bit of further info for you:
Any time i use dots, i would take them out as soon as i have the screeds formed,, and fill in the area immediately with render or undercoat plaster, depending on the job you're doing. By taking them out once you have finished with them, you can fill in the space left with the same plaster or render, you are using at the time, so that way, it'll all go off at the same time,,,, instead of filling in the gaps left by the dots, hours after the majority of the wall has been coated. The dots are only there to help you set the thickness, levels,,, once the screed/s are in place, that's all you need to work from, by using your straight edge. The dots are then no longer required. I hope you understand what i'm trying to say. Sometimes when patching, (your job in particular and when you gain more confidence,,, after scratch coating the wall, (assuming you'll top coat it next day or so), you could use a straight edge in a horizontal position, coming in off of the original plane of the wall to form a screed top and bottom. It's not an easy task, but you have a great interest in the trade in general, and you will get there,,,,, keep asking and practicing, it's the only way to learn. I enjoy seeing pics of your work and reading your posts,, good luck to ya Newbee.

 

[NickB_99]

I would have put the 2 wooden dots in a "vertical" position.
Also,, "i wouldn't" have used them for the scratch coat. By using them for the scratch coat, then leaving them in for the top coat, when you remove the dots at the end of the rendering, you will have to patch up "two deep areas" where the dots were, in one thick coat, and risk them slumping, and showing as a patch. I know everyone has to learn.

Hi Roughcaster. Apologies for delay in reply, been away from the PC.

Thanks for the feedback, a great help as always.

I think I understand what you described in this job - that the dots are better on a vertical orientation and to set up two horizontal screeds against the existing plaster at the right hand side (like below)

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• NickB_99
• 10 Oct 2010
• 1

Then use the straight edge vertically when they're set.

One Q still -
With the dots - when would you put the dots in? (if you're using them)
Would you position thin dots on top of the scratch coat ? (after the scratch has gone off of course!).
Then as you say, use these dots to create the screed to provide the levels, then remove them right way once the screed is formed, and fill holes with remainder of same mix.
Hope this makes sense.

 

[roughcaster]

If i was going to render a whole scratch coated wall using dots, i would put the dots on top of the scratch coat.
The screeds would then be formed with a straight edge/render and the dots removed, and the gaps where the dots were ,, filled in.
I now have a scratched wall, with 2 wet screeds across the wall. I would now start to coat all across the wall with render, filling in, between the top and bottom screed. When i think i have a reasonable thickness put on, i'll get my straight edge, and with an up and down motion, "carefully" working off of the 2 newly formed screeds, that are by now, steady enough to work off of. After going across the wall removing excess render, i then fill in all the areas that are "low", then go over the wall again with the straight edge, again working carefully from the wet screeds. I'll keep doing this until the render coat is of an even thickness. The wall at the top will be coated the same way, and then by using the plane of the lower part of the newly rendered wall, the top can be screeded off by using the straight edge or a darby, again, an up and down motion.
I would then go over the "whole wall" lightly with the darby, to take out the ridges etc left by the straight edge. Once the render has begun to pick up, i'd then start going over it with the float (wooden or plastic). I'd do this a few times until it was to my liking, then either sponge finish it etc, if it was finished render, or lightly scratch float it if it was to be plaster finished. Doing the whole process in one go the same day, from dots to screeds to render top coating the whole wall in one, give you a finished rendered wall with no joints/marks where the screed were. As a beginner Newbee, and if you are going to plaster over the render patch, then it doesn't matter whether you leave the screeds to go hard, then the next day fill in between them.


With the job that you have on the go, because you have scratched it and already have the dots in place, i'd leave them in now, and just fill in the gaps left. You're be plastering over the render anyway, so it wont matter if you leave the odd mark,, finishing will cover it, but if it was finished render, the patches would spoil the look of the job.

 

[NickB_99]

Once the render has begun to pick up, i'd then start going over it with the float (wooden or plastic). I'd do this a few times until it was to my liking, then either sponge finish it etc, if it was finished render, or lightly scratch float it if it was to be plaster finished. Phew!!!

Thanks Roughcaster - follow all that no probs.

I will be skimming the whole wall after, so will go with the light scratch as prep.

In fact have got a sponge float and a wood float - but not used them before.
I think a good chance for some practice to see if I could get a decent render finish!
It will get covered in skim anyway, so nothing to lose

 

[roy c]

Good job mucka, good advice from R C as usual . You could if you wanted to screed off the existing wall to get you float coat level with it. I noticed that your scratch coat has only 4 scratches and then a little gap inbetween scratches, I would get a scratching tool from one of the sheds and when you scratch your work dont leave a gap more than the gaps between your scratching tool.

 

[NickB_99]

Thanks Roy.

I noticed that your scratch coat has only 4 scratches and then a little gap inbetween scratches, I would get a scratching tool from one of the sheds and when you scratch your work dont leave a gap more than the gaps between your scratching tool.

LOL. Yep, I made it from a bit of wood and 4 little nails knocked through.
Maybe time to invest in a proper one.
Will bear in mind for uniform gaps in the future.

 

[NickB_99]

Finally got round to finishing this one off, now the roof has been fixed above.

A couple of pics to close out the thread -

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• NickB_99
• 9 Nov 2010
• 1

got my scratches bit neater this time Roy

I didn't re-skim the whole wall, as only about 1/4 of the width, so blended in, which looks fine.

On the ceiling however, it is a bit more noticeable unfortunately, but will be ok.

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• NickB_99
• 9 Nov 2010
• 1

Thanks for all the help along the way guys.

 

[roughcaster]

I'll tell you what Newbee, that is very very tidy. You've made a really good job of that. Did you enjoy rendering? and would you do it again? Roy will be impressed with the neat, evenly spaced scratch lines,,, it's a very theraputic part of the job. It's good to see pics of your work too. As Roy would say,,, well done mucka.

 

[NickB_99]

I'll tell you what Newbee, that is very very tidy. You've made a really good job of that. Did you enjoy rendering? and would you do it again?

Hi Roughcaster. Thanks!

I did enjoy the rendering, though it was a bit more work.
Mixing was definitely harder on a sheet of poly (for the small amount didn't think it justified hiring a cement mixer), so I guess my own fault there!

I also found it needed a bit of wetting down too through the evening as it was left to set. Just sprayed lightly with a pump spray bottle.
With Bonding once it's set, you seem to be there.
With Render, it can start to crack even a couple of hours after it's been laid on, so got to be more careful.

Will definitely have another go though.

I didn't post all the pics on the thread, but there are a couple of others (after the skim & before painting) that are at the end of my plastering album.
Didn't want to post too many on the thread and over do it.

 

[marshman]

Nice job.
Little tip, If you have another like this, board your bit of ceiling before you render it will help stop the render pealing away from the top
and help with the ceiling line, skim ceiling before walls to save you having to clean away any splashes.