No hot water from cylinder with Newlec Immersion heater

[Mr M]

I have no hot water at the moment in a house which I have just bought. It should be heated by the hot water cylinder shown in the picture below

Untitled

• Mr M
• 7 Mar 2009
• 1

Other than having no hot water, I cannot actually tell whether the cylinder is working. Only previously had central heating with combi boiler so not come across a cylinder before . The electric fused switch is set to on BTW. Does the cylinder make a noise as it is heating the water because at the moment it's silent?

I am going to check/swap the fuse in the spur unit which the cable comes out of and I having removed the cover on the Imersion heater 'element', I will check that there is power getting to the electrical connections but are there any other simple checks which I can do before I think about replacing the Immersion heater element?

Also, when I removed the cover (which says Newlec Type NL27PT 3.0kW 240V, 2.76kW 230V on it) next to where the Incoming wires come, there is a small dial with temperature settings on it from 50 degrees to 80 degrees. It was set to 70 degrees and I have turned it upto 80 degrees but still no hot water and no sound of it heating.

If I do need a replacement for the Newlec Type NL27PT Immersion heater, what are any equivalents. I have had a look on Screwfix and there are 11" and 27". Does it matter which size is fitted?

Any advice would be very much appreciated.

 

[seco services]

check the fuse first.
then check for power at the fuse. it maybe be off at the main consumer box.
if you have power at the fuse then check for power at the stat and so on.

you can hear them if you put your ear to the cylinder.
if it proves to be a faulty element you will need a 27" element.

 

[Mr M]

Thanks for the response seco services.

I swapped the fuse, turned the fused spur on and after a few seconds I heard it kick into action but after a few seconds more, it seemed to switch off/lose power again. I removed the fused spur face plate and checked and tightened all connections, turned it back on and it now seems to be working fine. So it was either the fuse or a dodgy connection

Can I just ask, is it ok to leave this turned on continuously so there is always hot water when it is needed or is it advisable to turn it on only when you know that you want hot water and then turn it off again? Is it likely to burn out if left on continuously?

 

[Agile]

Yes, but not at 80° !

You must turn it down to about 60° !

Tony

 

[Mr M]

Thanks Tony, will do

 

[londonboy]

Bear in mind the immersion uses 3000watts (will get expensive!), you could fit a timer so you're only heating the water in the morning/afternoon and not continuously.

[url]http://www.screwfix.com/prods...Supplies-_-Mechanical Immersion Timer 24 Hour

 

[seco services]

you won't heat it continuously the immersion stat will cut it out at 60 degrees and will still be hot enough in the evening.

 

[Mr M]

I need to resurrect this thread. The Immersion heater itself still seems to be working correctly but I think the problem maybe with the Switched Fused Spur. The Immersion has been working although, a couple of times recently when I have switched it on, nothing has happened.

I checked the fuse which was ok. I then removed the two screws which secure the spur unit to the back box, removed the unit away from the wall, switched it on and the Immersion starts working. Secured it back to the wall, turned it back on again and nothing.

I released the spur unit again, checked and tightened all the connections at the back of the unit and visually checked the cables for nicks, of which there are none. Switched the unit back on and the Immersion works, secure the spur unit back to the wall and it doesn't work.

The Spur unit looks quite old and I will probably replace it anyway with a new one, given the above, unless anyone tells me that the fault is likely to be something else. The fused spur unit originally and currently has a 13 amp fuse fitted within it. Would a 13 amp unit like this one here be OK to use for my Immersion or does it need to be a 20 Amp unit like this one here

 

[dextrous]

ADMIN - there are links to suppliers and specified materials. This is "FREE ADVERTISING". Remove this thread!!!!!

 

[seco services]

i would suspect a break in the cable more than the fused spur.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

I think the OP is only linking to examples to illustrate what he is talking about, i've done so myself before.

Mr M, Id say the 13 amp is the one to use. Immersion is 3KW, 13A fuse is ample. It may be fused back at the CU, but in case it isnt you are wise to provide a fuse in the spur unit. Best its fused twice, rather than just anything up to a 32A back at the CU protecting it. Just a thought, is the immersion on an economy 7 circuit? Will only be power there at certain times then.

 

[Mr M]

i would suspect a break in the cable more than the fused spur.

Thanks Seco. When you say a break in the cable, could you possibly clarify what you mean. If the cable has a break in it, would the Immersion just simply not work at all?

 

[Mr M]

I think the OP is only linking to examples to illustrate what he is talking about, i've done so myself before.

You are correct Hugh. My Intention was solely to Illustrate by way of pictures, which was the correct unit to use, not to advertise.

Mr M, Id say the 13 amp is the one to use. Immersion is 3KW, 13A fuse is ample. It may be fused back at the CU, but in case it isnt you are wise to provide a fuse in the spur unit. Best its fused twice, rather than just anything up to a 32A back at the CU protecting it. Just a thought, is the immersion on an economy 7 circuit? Will only be power there at certain times then.

Thanks Hugh. Its not on an Economy 7 circuit. I think its probably just a spur taken off the ring or part of the ring itself. The electrics generally look quite old and there is still the old fuse box with wired fuses and this will need replacing in the not too distant future along with a rewire

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Did wonder if that maybe the case. Ring would likely be fused at 30A, if you used the 20A switch the only protection is the 30A at fuseboard, if immersion went pop result could be nasty.... I'd suspect you'd need heat resistant flex to replace exisiting from spur to immersion. Might be better picking the sparky's brains though about that if you haven't already.

 

[seco services]

i would suspect a break in the cable more than the fused spur.

Thanks Seco. When you say a break in the cable, could you possibly clarify what you mean. If the cable has a break in it, would the Immersion just simply not work at all?

a cable can have a break in it and every time your removing the fused spur its making a connection.
as you said it comes on/off everytime you move the spur connection.

immersion cable should be heat resistant 2.5mm 3 core 20A