No shut off valve for hot bath tap

[justin1990]

Hi All,

I've decided to change my bath and bath taps but after pulling off the bath panel I've discovered only a shut off valve for the cold feed, not one for the hot!

Could anybody advise the easiest way to stop the flow of hot water please? I'm going to put flexible connectors onto the taps, one with a valve for the hot for any future works.

I still have an older system with a storage tank in the loft and hot water cylinder in the airing cupboard.

Appreciate any helpful feedback,

Justin

 

[JohnD]

Look at your cold water tank and see if it has valves on the outlets.

Before turning them, post pics (some can break if jammed).

If not, you can bung the outlets, or tie up the ball float and let it run to empty.

I have a cup hook screwed to the roof timbers and a length of baler twine in the loft for that very purpose.

 

[denso13]

and hot water cylinder in the airing cupboard.

Any red handled gate valves in the cylinder cupboard? Pics?

Draining down isn't a big deal though.

 

[justin1990]

Any red handled gate valves in the cylinder cupboard? Pics?

Draining down isn't a big deal though.

Hi mate, there's one behind the cylinder. See below pic....

Also now seems the cold one under the bath is jammed, doesn't seem to want to turn so this isn't go aswell as I hoped!

 

[denso13]

Looks like it, it should feed the bottom of the cylinder. Be gentle with it, just in case.

 

[Exedon]

I personally wouldn't trust that valve to hold let alone open up again.
Just turn off incoming main (you need that off if cold iso to bath won't shut) run hot off crack on.

 

[JohnD]

The valves with a "wheel" shaped head (red in your case) are made differently from the ones with a "T" shaped head.

The wheel valve is a gate valve, it has a spade-shaped brass "gate" inside that slides down to block the flow.

They have their advantages, but if they are not screwed shut and open occasionally, they tend to seize, especially if they have been screwed hard to the end of their travel, and will then break, in the closed position, when operated.

It is a good idea to try turning it a fraction closed, then open, then closed, then open, to try to free it off. Keep doing that until it moves freely.

It would be wise to buy a replacement valve beforehand, so that if it does break, you can replace it.

This type, and Pegler brand, are very much better.

It is a good idea to exercise any other stopcocks and valves in the house occasionally to prevent them seizing. Once a year will do.

When opening or closing a valve, do not leave it turned tight against the stop. Turn it all the way, then back off a fraction.

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