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Old cottage loft insulation, boarding and tiles questions

Discussion in 'Floors, Stairs and Lofts' started by Fridge03, 14 May 2020.

  1. Fridge03

    Fridge03

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    Hi all,

    First time poster. Been doing a lot of reading but couldn't find an answer to my specific questions so please bear with me!

    We have recently purchased a grade 2 listed cottage. I'm in the process of doing it up (all within listed building consent/consideration etc).

    I was lucky enough to pick up 7 bags of rockwall for free from a friend who didn't need them so the task of tackling the loft has been brought forward to...well now! As having the bags around is very much getting in the way downstairs!

    The loft area of the cottage is not full height. Maybe at most 150cm tall from joists to the ridge (pitched roof).
    The previous owners had made some attempt to insulate up there and board it out for storage but its pretty rubbish and only about 10cm of insulation in some places, none in others.
    My plan is to lift the old insulation, do a quick clean up as it is filthy up there, relay the old insulation between the joists so sitting straight on the lathe and plastic ceiling below. I'll then run timbers at 90 degrees across the joists, secure them and then add another layer of insulation across. Finally, I'll be putting back the existing chipboard boards and topping up with new ones to sit on top of the new timbers. I'll be making sure to leave enough room around the eaves for ventilation.
    Does that all sound ok? I think the biggest challenge I face is the very uneven joists. Old timber that varies in thickness/depth and doesn't run parallel at times! We've had fitted LED spot lights up stairs so the insulation can sit on top however I'm still planning on leaving a small gap around the spots, just in case.

    Following on from that, there were two old water storage tanks up there. These have been removed as a new combi is going in. However, where the tanks were the previous owner had put loose rockwool inbetween the rafters secured by battens running across. Holding the insulation up against the bare roof tiles (unfelted original roof). Am I right in taking this off? There is no air gap between the insulation and the roof tiles and I can't see what benefit, if any it's providing. Presumably they did it originally to make the bit of the roof around the water tanks "warmer".
    I am not planning on putting any insulation in the rest of the rafters as I want to roof space to be well ventilated.

    Finally, the roof itself is in ok condition. Most of the tiles and torching seems to be in place and secure. I do however have one tile right above the loft hatch that is missing a corner and as such, allows a small about of wet in when it rains. Can I replace this from the inside or can anyone recommend a fix for this? The hole/piece missing is probably 3cm x 3cm max.

    Thanks all!
     
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  3. oldbutnotdead

    oldbutnotdead

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    Rather than just 'leaving a gap' round your downlights, consider fitting the proper rear enclosures on them (to maintain the effectiveness of the ceiling as a fire barrier). Or make some out of plasterboard.
    You also need to consider the downlight wiring- is it beefy enough to be buried in insulation.
    Crossboarding- fine but you'll need 8" x 2" to get your overall insulation thickness to 300mm. This will cost you but be very effective binders for the original ceiling joists (set them high, pick up low joists with bits of 2 x 2 or strap steel)
    Given the headroom you'll end up with (1200 max) i'd question the point of boarding out tbh, you'll not have much space & using it as you get older gets harder.
    Yes ditch the old insulation where the tanks were, it was there to prevent the water from freezing
    Replacing torched tiles from below- unlikely to work but put a pic up of the broken one & the surrounds,
     
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