Outside Lights & Power - Some advice please?

29 Jul 2016
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Quaint ol' Sussex
United Kingdom
I apologise for the length of this post but I figure the more information the better?

I wish to install some outside lights and power sockets but having researched the matter, I'm not 100% sure what I have in mind is the right way to do things.

I'll explain what I want to do and any advice would be gratefully received.

Firstly, I would like to install 8 to 10 240v outside wall lights. My intention was to 'daisy chain' them from one to another around the outside walls of the house, with the first one being plugged into either a socket indoors, or an outside power supply in a weatherproof box (the Masterplug type here https://www.amazon.co.uk/Masterplug-Weatherproof-Socket-Extension-Lead/dp/B0062GTL42/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1469831326&sr=8-5&keywords=waterproof+box). Each light will have a 60w bulb.

Secondly, I am building some raised borders from decking boards and would like to install some 45mm colour changing 12v LED lights (Here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-LED-...hash=item5b0aaa8325:m:m_D6P6kZbhavZ20fz1V4daw) which are IP67 rated. Again, my intention was to either run them from a socket indoors, or from a power supply in the weatherproof box mentioned above. I have purchased 4 sets of the LED lights (40 lights in total) and want to split them between 30 lights daisy-chained on one transformer (the max that can be run from one transformer/controller) and the standard 10 lights on another controller/transformer. I understand the 'plug' of the LEDs needs to be protected from the weather (hence placing it in a weatherproof enclosure), but everything after that is IP67 rated.

So my intention was to run a power supply (essentially a standard extension) from indoors to a weatherproof box (the one mentioned above) and then plug into that the plug from my daisy-chained wall lights and the plugs from the LED lights.

I am using 3 core 0.75mm flexible cable (Here http://www.screwfix.com/p/time-rubber-pond-flexible-cable-3183p-3-core-0-75mm-x-25m-black/61627). I decided on this because the wattage of the wall lights will be 600 watts, which equates to 2.5amps, and the cable can take 6amps. Is this assumption correct? Presumably I should fit the plug (for the wall lights) with a 3amp fuse?

Likewise, the LEDs will I believe only consume 1 watt per light, so 40 watts in total.

Is what I am proposing ok?

I also have a 500w halogen security light on a separate cable (not sure of thickness - could be 0.75mm 3 core up to 1.5mm 3 core) which I plug into an indoors extension occasionally when I want to go into the garden at night. I have had this for about 10 years and it has worked fine for me, but I don't know if it is 'safe', i.e., should it be wired another way? It's only used occasionally. But I was thinking about adding on another 2, maybe 3, 400w/500w halogens to surround the entire house. Can I just add them on (daisy-chain) them, obviously wired so that all connections are in weatherproof boxes and earthed.

Depending on what people think, the following may be something to consider. I recently sold my hot tub and still have the original cabling in place. This is armoured SWA cable (not sure if 2.5mm or 4mm as it doesn't say on it - but diameter of the SWA is 15mm) which is wired to its own RCD in the consumer unit (everything was installed by a Part P sparky), which then runs about 20m to an isolating switch. It has been terminated at that Isolating switch as the buyer disconnected the rest of the SWA from the Isolating switch to the hot tub. I can't remember if it's on a 32 or 40amp RCD breaker, but it's one of them.

So I have been wondering about using the power from the redundant SWA/Isolating switch instead of using a socket and extension from indoors, but having researched this possibility, I have become confused as to how I should connect to the SWA/Isolating switch.

Can anybody help me with this please? Is what I am proposing ok, or have I got the completely wrong end of the stick?

One last thing - I was hoping to install a weatherppof switch between the wall lights and LED lights and the power supply so that I could just turn them on at the flick of a switch, but I'm confused about the different types of switches available and whether or not I can even install a switch? I was looking at this type - http://www.screwfix.com/p/bg-nexus-2g-2w-sp-switch/66499#product_additional_details_container). I believe I can install this between the power supply (from the enclosed extension from an indoors socket, or from the SWA/Isolating switch) and the wall lights/LEDs. Is this possible?

Please don't bombard me with abuse - I'm simply trying to understand whether what I have proposed is ok, or whether there is another way of doing what I would like to do that is easier/better/safer, or whether I shouldn't do any of it at all.

If I've left out any obvious info then just ask.

Thanks in advance.
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Firstly, you need to get rid of all that wattage. 600W of wall lights and maybe 2000W of security lights.
That is ridiculous today; not to mention the cost.

Look into LED lamps for all of them.
But I specifically want 'old fashioned' lights like these - they will be for occasional use (not on every night) and so the cost will be minimal. Add to that I no longer have a 6kw hot tub running 24/7, then I'm quids in cost-wise. ;)

I have a large garden (about 200ft x 100ft with the house sort of in the middle) and want to light up a lot of it for occasional use. We are semi-rural, have no neighbours, no street lights nearby so it's a security issue too, hence wanting to be able to light up the whole garden 360 degrees and so that we can see when coming home at night in the dark.

LED floodlights don't do it for me and the wall lights are ornate types with retro 60 watt 'vintage' bulbs for aesthetic purposes - I consciously did not want LED or low energy bulbs as, in my experience, the light they give off is atrocious and they don't last long before they blow. I've removed ALL of my low energy bulbs from around the house and have replaced with good old fashioned incandescent ones.
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1) You will require planning permission for any lamp over 150W so that 500W lamp must be altered, you can get LED replacements for the old halogen lamps.
2) Tungsten lamps produce heat which is a real pain outside, the air inside the lamp expands when they are on, then contracts when off and can suck in water.
So not because of energy saving, but to reduce maintenance you need to look at LED lighting.

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