outside tap regs
- Thread starter twgas
- Start date
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Whatever the regs say, if you do go for the DCV, don't fit a bib tap with integral DCV. They are prone to breaking should the tap be subjected to frost.
The water between the 2 checks freezes, expands and breaks one of the checks.
Fit one inline, indoors.
On the subject of bib taps, would you please stop asking counter boys for non-concussive hose union bib taps. I have to keep explaining to them why they are impractical!
The water between the 2 checks freezes, expands and breaks one of the checks.
Fit one inline, indoors.
On the subject of bib taps, would you please stop asking counter boys for non-concussive hose union bib taps. I have to keep explaining to them why they are impractical!
TW, you did say 'iso valve'? Then yes, preferably a lever type so that at the start of the frosty season anyone can turn it off, nip outside to open up and so give some room for expansion if any lingering water does freeze.
You do need a double check valve, and I sleeve the 'through the wall plate' so that like gas pipes, movement can be accommodated and any escape will not fill the cavity (would still be messy though....)
HTH
DH
You do need a double check valve, and I sleeve the 'through the wall plate' so that like gas pipes, movement can be accommodated and any escape will not fill the cavity (would still be messy though....)
HTH
DH
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Get yourself a frost proof outside tap and stop worrying about it freezing up
http://www.felthorpelawnmowers.co.uk/merrill-frost-proof-outside-wall-tap-mf-series-603-p.asp
Very common in North America and Scandinavia.
TWENTYFIVE QUID!!!!
Presumably, the mechanism stretches up the inlet pipe to isolate it from the extremes of winter:
View media item 45706
Why do the line drawing and the photograph differ.
What's that supposed to be on the top of the valve in the line drawing? Looks like another connection.
Not convinced it would be worth the ridiculously high price. And you've still got to fit a DCV somewhere.
FIFTY QUID!!!!
Presumably, the mechanism stretches up the inlet pipe to isolate it from the extremes of winter:
View media item 45706
Why do the line drawing and the photograph differ.
What's that supposed to be on the top of the valve in the line drawing? Looks like another connection.
Not convinced it would be worth the ridiculously high price. And you've still got to fit a DCV somewhere.
WRAS or WRC approved? No evidence visible on site.
DH
DH
Yep that is how it works. The bit where the water is turned off resides inside the house so is unlikely to freeze. It is installed at slight downward angle so when you turn it off the water drains out the tap leaving nothing exposed to the cold to freeze. That of course assumes you don't leave a hose pipe attached mind you.
A standard outside tap is going to set you back £7, then you need a back plate to fix to the wall which is another £5 at least, no back plate needed with this tap. So it is not that much more expensive.
Personally I find the convenience of just being able to go out side and turn a tap in the middle of winter and get some water with out messing about turning it on and off inside to be worth the extra £12. Add in the "insurance" that if you forget to turn it off inside there is no risk of a flood and it is a winner in my books.
If these where standard in the UK there would have been a lot fewer burst pipes and flooding in the two cold winters that we have just had.
I have no idea if it is WRAS or WRC approved and frankly don't care. It is a piece of quality American made kit used in the millions in North America without issue. All "approval" would do is push the price up for no gain.
standard outside tap is going to set you back £7,
i'm not sure it would, as a trade price.
then you need a back plate to fix to the wall which is another £5 at least, .
I might be seting myself up for criticism, and I am not a plumber. but gas qualified. I rarely do this type of work, but did when I started up. Anyway, I don't use a backplate, but a 15mm x 1/2" connector. Plastic coated pipe soldered into the connector. Drill hole in wall, then enlarge it using a 25mm bit. Assemble the tap into the connector and push into hole, Use a hammer to jam the fitting into the right orientation.
This way there is NO external pipe, and make sure the iso valve is accessible, and explain to the customer about isolating and draining. I have NEVER had a call to eplace a froze one.
Has anyone an answer to the OP's ACTUAL question ? I am sure it is mandatory for internal taps, and would assume it is for OT's.
i'm not sure it would, as a trade price.
then you need a back plate to fix to the wall which is another £5 at least, .
I might be seting myself up for criticism, and I am not a plumber. but gas qualified. I rarely do this type of work, but did when I started up. Anyway, I don't use a backplate, but a 15mm x 1/2" connector. Plastic coated pipe soldered into the connector. Drill hole in wall, then enlarge it using a 25mm bit. Assemble the tap into the connector and push into hole, Use a hammer to jam the fitting into the right orientation.
This way there is NO external pipe, and make sure the iso valve is accessible, and explain to the customer about isolating and draining. I have NEVER had a call to eplace a froze one.
Has anyone an answer to the OP's ACTUAL question ? I am sure it is mandatory for internal taps, and would assume it is for OT's.
You should use one of these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/hose-union-back-plate/56415
They are £6.50 at Screwfix.
Checking in my copy of the WRAS water regulation guide and the answer is no. In fact they are not needed on taps inside the house either, as G11.1 only mentions appliances.
That said anyone not putting an isolation value on a standard outside tap needs their head examining as you would have no way of turning it off in the cold and preventing a burst pipe.
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