I hates soldering
They're called bootlace ferrules, and you need proper crimping tool, not a pair of pliers.
Sounds cool - thanks!
Panel Mounted Speed Regulator Module?
- Thread starter phaeton
- Start date
I hates soldering
They're called bootlace ferrules, and you need proper crimping tool, not a pair of pliers.
Sounds cool - thanks!
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I hates soldering
It's a simple enough procedure. I suggest you learn to do it right if you want to play around with this stuff.
I hates soldering
It's a simple enough procedure. I suggest you learn to do it right if you want to play around with this stuff.
Is there a link or thread for this or need I start a fresh thread please? I have iron and solder, I never mastered 'tinning', I can solder two wires together but the joint will be blackened & brittle. I would love to be able to solder well however.
Soldering irons may also have improved since I bought mine of course, which was over a decade ago.
Best thanks.
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Read more: //www.diynot.com/forums/diy-disasters/bang.355718/#2682131#ixzz2LXcaGbFD
Be sure to learn which end of the iron gets hot, then hold only the other end.
Ancient though they are, the videos made by PACE are very, very informative: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s
You do not need expensive tools, although good solder helps hugely. My iron is cheap and nasty, though powerful. It suffices, with one tip, for 0603 SMD components, TQFP packages, all the way up to soldering the tabs of TO220 packages to a ground plane. Technique is 80% of the battle.
Oh dear..
You do not need expensive tools, although good solder helps hugely. My iron is cheap and nasty, though powerful. It suffices, with one tip, for 0603 SMD components, TQFP packages, all the way up to soldering the tabs of TO220 packages to a ground plane. Technique is 80% of the battle.
Oh dear..
ouch, yes indeed
My main problem has always been to heat the thing I'm trying to solder in the first place, otherwise the molten solder just bounces off it onto the floor or elsewhere. Too much heat and you end up melting the thing you are trying to join - for example - if it already has another joint soldered onto it.
In the current case soldering would have been little help, since the offending wire which slipped out had been positioned within the socket of the adapter cable, which is mostly black plastic. A ferrule on the wire into the socket would have been the bee's knees but I have yet to research those. If I can get something like this I will buy a pocket full
Thanks.
My main problem has always been to heat the thing I'm trying to solder in the first place, otherwise the molten solder just bounces off it onto the floor or elsewhere. Too much heat and you end up melting the thing you are trying to join - for example - if it already has another joint soldered onto it.
In the current case soldering would have been little help, since the offending wire which slipped out had been positioned within the socket of the adapter cable, which is mostly black plastic. A ferrule on the wire into the socket would have been the bee's knees but I have yet to research those. If I can get something like this I will buy a pocket full
Thanks.
There's part of your problem. The solder should be melted by the wire you're trying to solder.
ouch, yes indeed
My main problem has always been to heat the thing I'm trying to solder in the first place, otherwise the molten solder just bounces off it onto the floor or elsewhere. Too much heat and you end up melting the thing you are trying to join - for example - if it already has another joint soldered onto it.
See above. Technique is key.
A ferrule on the wire into the socket would have been the bee's knees but I have yet to research those. If I can get something like this I will buy a pocket full
http://www.toby.co.uk/content/catalogue/products.aspx?series=LN-xxxxxx
http://www.toby.co.uk/content/catalogue/products.aspx?series=LT-0xxxxx-xx+(French+colour+codes)
http://www.toby.co.uk/content/catalogue/products.aspx?series=LT-0xxxxx-xx+(German+colour+codes)
Their crimper is pricy for small time stuff, though, but this will suffice: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0002GUQT2
But you said
And I expect they should be soldered in. There is no other way.
With the controller which you did not blow up with a 2000% overload, I expect the problem all along was your bodged connection methods of sticky tape and knots.
Moreso the pity in that case - if my bodging had been as bad as it could have been, the circuit would have remained broken and the accident would never have occurred in the first place.
As regards soldering plastic cable, thanks but no, I think not
http://www.toby.co.uk/content/catalogue/products.aspx?series=LN-xxxxxx
http://www.toby.co.uk/content/catalogue/products.aspx?series=LT-0xxxxx-xx+(French+colour+codes)
http://www.toby.co.uk/content/catalogue/products.aspx?series=LT-0xxxxx-xx+(German+colour+codes)
Their crimper is pricy for small time stuff, though, but this will suffice: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0002GUQT2[/QUOTE]
Thanks, these look blumin excellent! I have added the crimper to my wish list!
As regards soldering plastic cable, thanks but no, I think not
Well if it's plastic it doesn't conduct much, now does it?
As regards soldering plastic cable, thanks but no, I think not
Well if it's plastic it doesn't conduct much, now does it?
Hm - good point - probably why they use it to insulate with.
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