Plastic Pipe Connection For Radiator

[DazJWood]

I am currently redoing my bathroom.

All the copper pipe in my bathroom has now been replaced with plastic pipe so there will be no connections at all under the floor board. I can turn on each supply via gate valves all set up in my airing cupboard.

I need to move my radiator from the middle of the room (was originally a seperate bathroom and toilet and now one bigger bathroom) to the side of the room.

The copper pipe supply for the original radiator tees into the supply from the next bedroom so my intention was to cut back the pipe into the next bedroom and connect plastic pipe and then route this to the new position for the radiator. As I am putting down a marble floor I want no connections under the bathroom floor.

My question is which is the best or more robust connection to connect the copper to the plastic? Is pushfit robust? I have this fear of the pushfit 'blowing off' but I am sure this doesn't happen unless they are not connected properly. Or should I use compression? Of either of the solutions I was going to fit an isolation valve to enable me to not have to drain the system when I'm ready to plumb the new radiator in.

There is another solution. Where I want the new radiator located there are copper radiator pipes leading downstairs for the supply to all the lower radiators. I could solder in t pieces at this point. My soldering skills leave a lot to be desired though and I'd probably have to get my plumber mate to do this for me.

Anyone got any comments on any of these solutions?

Thanks in advance,

Daz

 

[dextrous]

Isolator valves are compression anyway, and that would be better than pushfit. Don't use any PTFE, and remember to use the pipe inserts.

If you decide to use the main 22mm pipes nearby you describe, you could buy 22-22-15 compression tees instead of worrying about solder joints. Remember that any joints must be accessible, so you are correct not to have any under a marble floor.

Gate valves should not be used on mains pressure pipes (they're designed for low pressure pipework such as water from a header tank) - a better solution would be full bore lever valves.

Finally, you need to check for any electric bonding requirements - post on the electrics forum where the sparks will give advice. Make sure that you explain that all pipework is not plastic and that there will be no exposed metal, but include details of any electric shower, shaving lights etc.

 

[neds]

As said above whatever you do do not use anything less that Full bore Isolation valves. Technically you shouldnt really be using any isolation valves up to rads...

Use compression, pipe inserts and copper olives if you must.

 

[freddyuk]

Simply tee off your bedroom rad supply but use compression tees if you are worried about the joints? Also i would not run plastic pipe into the rads as it gets a bit floppy when hot and can expand quite a bit so copper is better into the rad valves.

 

[Axel]

Pushfit is more acceptable below floor - not supposed to use compression where not accessible. Typically, compression fittings can "undo" if the pipe is twisted with an anticlockwise vector, which could be caused by twisting of the pipe above the floor, say, when someone cuts the pipe or puts on a compression fitting above floor level.

 

[DazJWood]

I am now worried as my plumber has installed a manifold system in my airing cupboard using gate valves. There are 5 cold water gate valves fed from the mains cold supply and 4 hot water gate valves fed from the return from my combi boiler.

Have these been incorrectly used on a mains pressure system and are they likely to fail or leak. He has actually installed one to many on the cold side so one valve will never be connected to anything.

What should be used instead? Can anyone provide a link to the right type of valve? Is a normal isolation valve what should have been installed?

Thanks,

Daz

 

[DazJWood]

Should it be stop taps such as:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/15440/Plumbing/Pegler-Brassware/Pegler-Stop-Tap-15mm

or

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/13103/Plumbing/Brassware/Full-Bore-Lever-Ball-Valve-15mm

The gate valves currently installed are fairly close together so would I have a problem using the lever ones?

Thanks in advance,

Daz

 

[DazJWood]

Anyone?

 

[dextrous]

I'd have gone for the full bore lever.

Sounds like you've got a mighty load of unnecessary plumbing going on there - why on earth do you want to be able to isolate every individual pipe run?

 

[DazJWood]

I don't. I was going on the advice from my plumber. I think I should have left the original copper pipe in and just teed off a new supply for my shower.

 

[dextrous]

I don't. I was going on the advice from my plumber. I think I should have left the original copper pipe in and just teed off a new supply for my shower.

He's a funny fella then. Gate valves on mains supply, spare and unneccessary tees. Maybe he's an artist

 

[glasgowgas]

cannot defend your plumber, very shoddy...............

but he does have good intentions, he just doesnt know how to apply the idea in his head into practise

there is a manifold system on market, which is fitted above floor level

means you have no underfloor joints, therefore no leaks underfloors

 

[dextrous]

but he does have good intentions, he just doesn't know how to apply the idea in his head into practice

The road to hell is paved with good intentions

 

[DazJWood]

cannot defend your plumber, very shoddy...............

but he does have good intentions, he just doesnt know how to apply the idea in his head into practise

there is a manifold system on market, which is fitted above floor level

means you have no underfloor joints, therefore no leaks underfloors

The manifold that he has created is above floor level. It's in my airing cupboard. Good idea in practise I think but he's used gate valves, which as it now seems are not to be used on mains pressure.

I'm not sure the lever ones will fit as the existing manifold is fairly close together so the levers will hit each other when in the off position. Can just normal isolation valves be used?

 

[dextrous]

Trouble with isolation valves is that they restrict the flow even when fully open. If your pressure is fine, then it may well not be a noticable problem.