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Plumb, dot and screed - an alternative method?

Discussion in 'Plastering and Rendering' started by Rhothgar, 27 Oct 2018.

  1. Rhothgar

    Joined:
    27 Oct 2018
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    United Kingdom
    Hello

    I'm new to the forum but have been reading many posts from it of late since my plasterer went and got himself a hernia so he is out of the loop for 4 months in reality.

    Now then! I know how difficult plastering is. It's a real art and I once tried a bit on a chimney breast a few years ago whilst my plasterer watched over me. It wasn't a pretty sight. I seem to recall it fell off the wall as I didn't press to hard.

    Anyhow, I've been reading up on this forum and other articles about the plumb, dot and screed method of plastering and it's renewed my interest in giving it a go.

    Professional plasterers don't seem to bother with it because they're so skilled but for an absolute beginner it makes sense.

    I read one article by a specialist plastering firm where they described using clout nails and a string line to line through intermediate clout nails and create the screeds in between.

    The traditional way seems to be by using thin pine laths and plaster dots?

    However, would I be correct in saying that if I was to use screeds with the clout nail method the screeds just stay in-situ and there would be no making good, right?

    I am not sure I have the confidence to do the final skim but the undercoat looks to be, famous last words, a cinch using either method.


    The areas to be plastered consist of horrible Thermalite blockwork and 9" common brickwork. Would I use Hardwall on the Thermalite and Bonding on the common brick?

    One issue I can envisage is if I tried to do it using clout nails they simply may not sit tight enough in the Thermalite whilst I am trying to level and plumb the dots with a spirit level and straight a la Roughcaster method. I've read both threads where he and Roy C have commented on dot and screed.

    I appreciate it is also a slow method but how long (is a piece of string) would you reckon it take a complete novice to undercoat 40 sq. m?

    One other issue is that there is a runout of 50mm where the thermalite blockwork tilts back to the outside brick leaf on one section of wall where it abuts the original blockwork from bad workmanship!

    Can anyone point out to me the pitfalls I am likely to encounter using either method please?

    Thanks in advance
     
    Last edited: 29 Oct 2018
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