Pointer needed on flint rendering walls

[Busybloke]

HI

Any one able to either point me in the direction of information, or tell me how I can go about making flint pannels / rendering in a brick wall?

I figure I need to know:

1) Where to get the flints
2) the mix needed to make the morter to hold the flints
3) how to do it?

All help would be great.

Thanks

 

[chessspy]

Hi, busy bloke,
Do you mean, to build flint panels into a wall?
Or to make the appearance of it in render?
If the first,
The wall needs to be built with 9" corners block bonded with the main body of the wall 4" flettons and expamet strips laid in at random to hold the flint later. You then lay the flint into the wall making it all 9".
Any cavity needed is behind and in addition to the main 9" wall, that is why it is little done now. (costs too much)
If you only intend to make the appearance of flint in render, ask someone else, I don't do pretending.

 

[chessspy]

Mix for flint is 3 to 1, and Nicaragua is the supplier,
however you might try the yellow pages for natural stone supplies

 

[Busybloke]

Thanks Chessspy

I'm looking to build a wall with one side containing flint (not pretend stuff).

Not sure I understand all the terms you are using (being a complete amature).

Do you put the morter in the gap first and then bed the flints? Do you use a cloth to "point" (as such) afterwards?

Sorry if these sound like dumb questions.....

 

[chessspy]

Hi, busy,
The only kind of flint wall I've built is for a house, with flint panels in the front elevation, if you're repairing existing, or building a perimeter or retaining wall then the method will be slightly different.
however this is how I did it.
The wall needs to be built first, in 4"brick, so that there is an empty panel 4" deep with ties of some sort to hold the facing flint, I used strips of 6" wide expamet (expanded metal, comes in rolls and is used laid in the bed joints to strengthen a wall, but in this case it is cut into strips 18" long and left with 3" protruding to grip the flint).
So you end up with a 4" common brickwork wall with 9" brickwork at the corners, built with a block bond form, (in and out every 3 course) which stands 4" proud of the backing panel.
These corners then have the lines put on as a guide to keep the flint of fair face appearance (flat) although you do not try to make the flint run in courses like brickwork, it is totally random in pattern.
As you start bedding in the flint, you will need to trim it as required, (with a brick hammer) as you go, mixing large and smaller pieces, but trying to keep a 10mm joint in between as far as you can, after you've laid a couple of meters leave it so that the mortar can take it's first set and then with a pointing trowel when the mortar is semi dry, you can point up using the point of the trowel to cut a protruding 'V' shape into the joints.(bottom of the 'V' pointing out )
Brush off the next morning with a stiff wall brush.
I suggest you go and look at some examples.

 

[chessspy]

Hi, busy,
here's a sketch showing what I mean.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/chessspy/FlintWall

 

[chessspy]

One question Busy bloke,
If you're a complete armature, does that mean you motor along?

 

[Busybloke]

I just wanted to offer a huge thankyou Chessspy for taking the time and effort to provide the information you have...CHEERS. I think I'm set now...

 

[chessspy]

Hi, busybloke,
Don't thank me buy me a prezzy

 

[pford75]

Do you still need help on this?

 

[Busybloke]

Hi

Thanks for the offer. I ended up using the flint blocks. They do look great, but in the back of my head, I know they're not the real deal....If you don't mind sharing the info, I'd still be keen to know though.

Cheers

 

[2scoops0406]

You probably want knapped flint, which is almost impossible to get hold of now.

 

[Shytalkz]

Chess, brother, why 1:3? That's waaaaay strong a mix. 1:2:9 would be fine and lighten it up too.

 

[pford75]

Speaking as the owner of a very large flint wall (Listed GII), we had to rebuild a section which was demolished by a tree.

There are two main methods of constructing a flint wall:

1. The entire wall is constructed using flint rubble (this relies upon timber shuttering being constructed either side of the wall to hold until the mortar goes off). This is not normally used now.

2. The second is to construct a brick core (although some use concrete blocks) as described earlier in the thread. This core should have wall ties or similar protruding into the panel to provide some support for the flints. Strictly, I would use a 3:1 sand:lime putty mix. If you are going to use cement, then you might as well use the panels you already have....but the look will not be the same. I'm not a professional builder (just a householder interested in historic building conservation) and I managed to make my own lime putty and mix my own mortar.

The mortar is usually 'thrown' at the wall and the flints bedded into this. You will probably only build 1ft or so at a time since the mortar will need time to harden (doesn't happen as quickly as cement).

When a panel is finished, the face of the flints is normally brushed (with a stiff bristle) whilst misting with water (garden sprayer will do fine). This brushing both cleans the face of the flints and also exposes the aggregate in the mortar. It also leaves more of the flint face showing (look at an old flint wall for an example)

You do not have to use knapped flints - styles vary by region and there are many different types. If you want knapped, these are still available from suppliers like Mike Wye Associates.

 

[Zeke521]

Better late than never

for all flintblocks just go here these guys will help and supply all

www.flintblocks.com