Polycarbonate Lean-to roof..

[Umy786]

Hi all

I'm wanting to get my side returned roofed with 25/35 Poly

I've seen various ways and clearly MW Roofline is well clued up on the matter, to save time I thought of getting someone round but and have been advised it's a days work and was quoted £1350

I was hoping it would be £1000 tops so am now thinking to do this myself as I think that's a bit high

Could anyone perhaps advise on the best way to go about this, I've done most other DIY bits but not a full roof / timber supports and would need some quidance on how to seal the walls where the poly meets the render (just had External wall Inuslation put on the place & have a silicone render)

Would really appreciate some help and cost / DIY guides

Thanks all

 

[JohnD]

Is it just a yard/passage, or do you want it to be properly weathertight?

 

[Umy786]

It's not a passage as it's a terraced property. I don't have a pic taken after the render was done but got an old one which will hopefully give you an idea of what the place looks like

This is the area that I'd like roofed.

I want to have the area upto the single storey roofed and yes would want it fully weatherproofed as I wish to do my DIYing there as it gets too dusty inside.

Hope that makes sense.

Also would like some perspectives on whether to have the water flowing towards the neighbours house / or towards the garden (behind)

Thanks

 

[Umy786]

Would someone be able to advise on how I'd be able to work around the downpipe & soil pipe?

Also, would I be able to put the guttering over the top of the posts down & along the fence without encroaching or invating my neighbours boundary?

 

[Mw Roofline]

The black vent on the kitchen wall, is that just steam/air etc? Looks a ballache having to cut the poly around all those pipes. My advice? Pay £1350 and have a professional do it, we would be more but then again we would do you a swanky hip type segmented thing...

Yes you can do it yourself you'll have to slope it to neighbours, it wo'nt work to garden.

First thing you need to do is bang 3 4x4" upright posts in with a wall plate along the 3 posts, something like 2 lots of 4x2 sandwiched together and have the finished height of the wall plate more or less the same height as the french doors. Don't forget to step it in a little so when the gutter is attached to the wallplate its level with the fence.

 

[Mw Roofline]

You might want to get your fascias and gutter done first, will be a git to do once the roof is there. It's not a lot to do meterage wise

 

[Umy786]

Mw really appreciate your input on this, that pic is about 6 months old and have since had solid wall insulation and new gutters and fascias

I was thinking of doing is having the roof start above the bend that goes to the toilet and then slope down slightly as I wanted the light inside / under the sheets, that way it'd be one less pipe to cut around and I'd have alot room height to work with

How would you suggest covering up the exposed sides if I did go that high, jsut thinking it'd probably be easier moving the light rather than going up that high with ladders etc even still, would you use the same method of fixing the poly down on the vertical sides too?

Glad you suggested 4x4s as I was going to go with 4x2s with 5/6x2 wall and front plates, that width face plate be ok?

 

[Mw Roofline]

yeah you only need a 2" width nothing more. You want to cover in the sides? Just put more uprights in and then some smaller timbers and just clad the lot.

You might not need to move the light. If you draw a line from top of toilet bend to the left of door it just about misses it.

 

[Umy786]

That is a very good point actually, didn't think of that but thing is it is an old pic & i've got a funny feeling it's sitting up higher now - I really do need to get an update to date pic but it's always to dark when I get home (Still at work as i type this!)

One of my main concerns is will the flash banding be enough to get a seal and be water tight on the silcone render, its a kind of soft textured render - will try and get some pics over the weekend to show you what I mean, but not only on the reander but also on the pipes - how would I ensure no water gets behind the pipes? Or is there a special type of gasket / fitting that is available?

 

[Umy786]

Had a look last nighta nd the light is indeed higher than where it was originally, I may move it, it will give me an excuse to add another one for good lighting during the evenings, there's only one 1m watt LED on there atm

What kind of angle would be the best for this situation

Also I've had a look at all the items i need to get this started, will give MW's suppliers a ring as I'm positive they'll give me a great quote

6x 800mm x 2000mm 25mm Five wall Poly (think the actual length that'll be needed will be around 1700-1850mm, will have to work that out once I've decided on the correct angle
6x 2m Aluminiam glazing bar
3x Fixing buttons (10PK)
2x Sheet Enclosure
1x Roll of Flash Band
1x Breather Tape (If not already taped)
2x F Section

Anything I've missed?

 

[Mw Roofline]

It's worth paying the extra and getting self support bars so you won't need to run timber under the bars just need a wall plate top and bottom. You'll need foilband for the soft render not flashband it will stick better. There isn't any kind of flashing for around the pipes you just use a shyte load of foilband.

 

[Umy786]

Will I be able to get a 3 way enclosure so that the lean to is only 'open' from one end?

Do the self support bars give me an automatic angle then too?

I personally do prefer the self support as it would look much nicer I believe. Mw what would the cost difference would there likely to be between timber & self support?

 

[Mw Roofline]

Poly same price bars 3 times the cost. Bars do any angle you just cut an angle where they touch house to get closer to brick. You make your own enclosure.

 

[catlad]

self supporting bars look a lot better

 

[Umy786]

Had Brett Martin give me a quote on what I needed - think it's great that they'll also cut the sheets to size & tape it for you aswell

£330 + vat & delivery timber bars, £430 + vat & delivery for self support (25mm opal)

To be honest i really thought self support would've been much more expensive than that - it's only about £100 difference - I've done a lot of research on how to make & get the timber frame up and had kind of set myself and bought the plates & fixings for that but at that price it really really is tempting

The things are that I've seen no guides or instructions on helping how to cut & fit the bars, and as I want an enclosure I am going to have to use timber anyway - and unlike timber if I make a mistake & ruin the bars I'll have to order more, with timber it won't be as much of an issue, along with the fact that I'll definitely have to order larger sized sheets as I won't know what angle I need to set & the bars at until I've put the wall plate up...

Anyone have know of any instructional / installation guides or videos I could have a look at to get a better understanding of selp support?