Potteron 40eL - (very) Basic Questions About Central Heating

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Hi Folks,

Firstly, as will become blindingly obvious fairly soon, I know nothing of central heating systems (hence being here for help). I bought my first ever house a little over a year ago, and was content until recently just to know that the boiler had "Potterton" printed on it and very little else.

A a couple of months ago one of the main downstairs radiators cooled down. After noticing, I was given a crash course in bleeding radiators by a friend (see, I told you I know nothing of central heating systems). This helped for a couple of days, but soon it was cold again and no amount of bleeding helped. I couldn't really afford to have it professionally looked at (and yes, I know I can't afford not to either), so decided that as long as the rest of the radiators carried on working - I could live without it.

Now I'm having problems with a second radiator downstairs, and it has occured to me how little I know about my own central heating system. Whilst any suggestions as to the radiator problem would be great - my main reason for this posting is to familiarise myself with my system before attempting to drain/refill it.

I've done a little reading on this site (as well as others) - but a lot of the answers, and some of the questions for that matter, assume a basic level of knowledge which I obviously lack.

A little background to my system... There is a Potterton 40eL gas boiler in the kitchen with a Randell-102 "A-On, B-Off, C-On, D-Off" style mechanical clock next to it (with a "Water Only, Off and Water/Heating" rocker switch on the side). A number of radiators upstairs and down of varying sizes. A thermostat in the living room. The hot water tank is upstairs is a small cupboard with another thermostat, a temperature sensor attached to the tank, a Grundfos pump and a three-way valve (Potterton PMV3). The house was built 12 years ago, but I've no idea if the central heating is the same age as the house. I live in a "soft" water area.

How can I check if my bleeding the radiators has removed too much water?

As I understand it, the water in the radiators is exactly the same water as when I moved in. I'd read somewhere about a pressure gauge. But I have been unable to find one anywhere. I'm just concerned with all the bleeding maybe there isn't enough water for everything to work properly.

Is the expansion vessel the small tank in the loft?

Having searched around a bit, I find two insulated water tanks in the loft - both appear to be linked to the hot water tank. One is considerable larger that the other (maybe four/five times bigger by volume). Would I be right in assuming the larger one is a "feeder tank"? Would I also be right to assume that this is the water that eventually come out of my hot taps? I've read somewhere about an expansion vessel - is it likely that's what the smaller tank is? (I'm assuming that since water expands when heated, that the water in the radiators need somewhere to expand into).

Any special precautions to take before draining the radiators?

I had intended to switch the system off at the switch on the side of the A-B-C-D clock, then attach a hosepipe to one of the drainage pipes at the bottom of one of the downstairs radiators and open the valve. Anything else I need to worry about? I'd heard about various "flushing" chemicals, but would they be essential or optional extras? All the downstairs radiators have drainage points, do I need to do them all? And if so, all at once or one at a time?

Draining from where?

Is there valve or something I need open at the "top" of the system? My understanding of sealed systems is that water will only pour out the bottom if air can rush in at the top (else a vacuum will form). Is there something I need to turn/open or will the air come in through the small tank I've assumed is the expansion vessel?

Will the small tank automatically refill the radiators?

The small tank has a ballcock in it (although I hadn't noticed a cold water feed). Is this likely to be to refill any water lost/drained from the radiators or is it just likely to be an overflow when the system is refilled via other means?

Refill where?

Assuming the ballcock in the little tank is for overflow prevention... Would I refill the system from the bottom or the top? I could forsee problems with air blockages by just pouring water in the top (maybe into the little tank?) - but that would leave only filling from the bottom up. In which case, how? Where? And would I need someone in the loft near the little tank to tell me when it's "full"?

Refill with just water?

Assuming I can empty and refill the radiator system, is that it? Or is there some additive or something that needs to go in too? There seems to be some kind of logic to adding something to the water to reduce the buildup of "whatever" - but where that idea came from, I've no idea. If something like that is necessary - is it just a case of pouring that something into the small tank? Would it need to be measured?

Sorry for such a long post.

I have some specific questions about the three-way actuator, the timer clock and a few other bits and pieces - but I'll wait to see what sort of response I get to this first.

Thank in advance,
-Baz
 
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Hi Baz!.
You're confusing sealed systems with non sealed systems.
Yours is non sealed, so no 'pressure gauge' and no 'expansion vessel
Cold water expands when heated and in your case it expands up the expansion/overflow pipe into the little tank. The little tank is fed with cold water through the ball cock and there will be another pipe feeding water as and when required down to heating system. (3 pipes)
The idea of bleeding radiators is to remove air not water but any water removed ( and air ) will be replaced by fresh water from little tank automatically.
The big tank is also a feeder tank for the 'hot water' system.
It also has a cold water feed through a ball cock, an expansion pipe and a pipe feeding water from the tank to the bottom of the 'hot water cylinder'.
Hot water leaves the hot water cylinder at the top to go to your taps.
Before draining a radiator you need to turn off the valves on both sides before you undo the connections, unfortunatally radiators seldom have a drain valve so you have to do the best you can with cloth and bowl at one end
Before draining the whole system you need to stop the water from entering your little tank. ( valve on feed pipe) there will be a drain cock somewhere at the lowest point.
There are additives for cleaning and prevention of scale, but I'm in a soft water area and my system is not permitted any additives (primatic cylinder)and its been operating just 31 years.
Hope it gives you some insight
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
Cheers

A little clarity has helped enormously.

Second radiator is now completely cold, again with bleeding being of no help whatsoever.

Next plan is to...
  • Wait till a warmish day, when the central heating is cold.
  • Tie up the ballcock in the smaller tank (so that it won't refill).
  • Switch off the central heating
  • Attach a hosepipe to one of the radiators downstairs ***
  • Drain the water out of the system, opening the bleed screws to allow in air in as I go (starting at the top and working down)
  • Shut off drain plug and close bleed screws.
  • Release ballcock to allow water to refill the system
  • Open and close bleed screws to allow trapped air to escape (from bottom, up and repeat as necessary)
  • Cross my fingers
  • Switch on central heating
  • Repeat bleeding, just to make sure.
*** (Actually at least 4 of the radiators downstairs have drain points on them, so I'll probably drain a little from each in turn)

Anything I missed, anything I've misunderstood?

Even if this works, I still intend to do it again in the near future after adding one of the "flushing" chemicals to the system. But one job at a time.

Cheers,
-Baz
 
Before you bleed rads close both valves on all rads. Then on first rad open one end and bleed until rad about half full. Close that valve and open other end and continue.

Reason? Water will take easiest route and if both valves are open the water can enter from one end, leave air trapped in pipe at the other end and although no air is left in rad it still will not work.

I normally use this method if I have problems removing air in a system. It works in majority of difficult cases. I have other methods for the really arkward ones but I have never failed yet with an airlock.

Alan
 
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I can see you're an expert already.
If you can fit a hose to your drain plug to take the water outside you might consider closing bleed valves and radiator valves and allowing 3 or 4 gallon water from your small tank to pass through the pipe work and flush out any debris before you refill.
Another point to take into consideration is your pump, it is possble due to 'air' the pump turns but does not pump water. so you also have to bleed the pump.
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
yeah, thankfully I found a post elsewhere on the site which details that when you turn the screw in the middle of the pump, it bleeds the pump too (rather than as I would have presumed up to that point, that the pump would fall apart).

Still, I'm learning - which helps.

My only worry is that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing :oops:

Time will only tell.

Thanks again,
-Baz
 

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