Potterton EP3000 to Hive wiring help

Joined
25 Nov 2020
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
7F3299B9-BA69-47A5-8A48-920EFD9A372C.jpeg
7F3299B9-BA69-47A5-8A48-920EFD9A372C.jpeg I currently have a Potterton ep3000 controller and want to change to a Hive! I am a keen amateur electrician so not a total idiot but some help would be appreciated please.

The wires in c need to be connected still ( behind box)

The wires in d need the same.

N and L are additionally obvious.

may confusion is where to put the wires in 1,3,4 and 5 from the Potterton over to the hive.
Some knowledgable help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance
 

Attachments

  • E061FCA3-F422-4738-9CEB-B2B18130D944.png
    E061FCA3-F422-4738-9CEB-B2B18130D944.png
    447.1 KB · Views: 302
  • 27A5CF14-DBC5-4A32-A906-DBC21978D6FA.png
    27A5CF14-DBC5-4A32-A906-DBC21978D6FA.png
    371 KB · Views: 266
Sponsored Links
you have a Y plan system so plenty of diagrams on google to show you what to do
 
I do indeed have a y plan system. I have looked on google and it’s no clearer to me. Can anyone just have a look at the pics that I posted above and help out in relation to where on the hive thermostat each wire goes please? Thanks.
 
N-N
L-L
1-1
3-3
4-4
The brown wire that is in 5 to L
Then as you say the two wires in C in a connector and the two wires in D on another connector.
 
Sponsored Links
The potterton ep3000 is a programmer (time clock) the Hive is a programmer and thermostat combined, some where there is likely a thermostat which needs decommissioning. As to why the potterton had two feeds not sure, as said above L and 5 are one terminal with Hive, likely it is a simple loop between the two, however one can't assume.

When I moved into this house I found central heating was supplied from three FCU and a 13A socket, which in turn was supplied from a fuse box and a consumer unit, although if wired correctly to start with combining 5 and L will likely be no problem, since we have no idea as to if wired correctly to start with, unless you can find a link L to 5, simply combining is not a good idea, as you don't know what you are combining.

It may work combining 5 and L, but it could also cause back feeds to a fuse/MCB/RCBO and could cause a borrowed neutral and if fitted trip any RCD/RCBO, it needs investigating, you can't assume.
 
The drawings you posted show that EP connections are:

ep-jpg.160969


and the Hive connections are

hive-jpg.160971


As you can see they serve identical functions number for number, except that the EP has an extra terminal (5) that has a red wire linking it to the (L) terminal. The Hive already has this connection made for you internally, so you simply loose the link wire between the EP (L) and (5) The remaining brown wire in terminal 5 should be connected to L.

The remaining wires transfer from the EP to a Dual Channel Hive like for like. N to N / L to L / 1 to 1 / 3 to 3 / 4 to 4 all as per @Johnmdc post.

The other terminals A to D are just there to serve as a junction box, they have no function other than to facilitate the connection of the wires that are in them. So the wires in C need to remain connected together and the wires in D need to remain connected together. The same is true of the wires in the earth bar on the right.

You are fortunate that there is a backbox already in situ. Personally, I would make all of the connections with a set of new terminals in there, and then just bring one wire to each of the N, L, 1, 3 & 4 terminals to the Hive receiver backplate. As it's a metal box don't forget to make sure that it is properly earthed.

You don't mention a room thermostat, but any existing room thermostat should be decommissioned properly by removing it and linking the switching wires together to complete the circuit. This is done by bridging the two live switching wires after removing them from the terminals. To do this you will have to trace the thermostat cable back to its origin and find out where it is connected into the circuit. Or alternatively set the original thermostat it to its maximum setting and leave it in place, so that it doesn't override the Hive. If you need any help with this post back a details of the room thermostat (make / model) and the wires connected to it.
 
Last edited:
Thank you all for your help! I wired it all in last night and it works just fine. Your info made things much clearer. I did have a thermostat and I bridged this out.
Thanks again- much appreciated
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top