The drawings you posted show that EP connections are:
and the Hive connections are
As you can see they serve identical functions number for number, except that the EP has an extra terminal (5) that has a red wire linking it to the (L) terminal. The Hive already has this connection made for you internally, so you simply loose the link wire between the EP (L) and (5) The remaining brown wire in terminal 5 should be connected to L.
The remaining wires transfer from the EP to a Dual Channel Hive like for like. N to N / L to L / 1 to 1 / 3 to 3 / 4 to 4 all as per
@Johnmdc post.
The other terminals A to D are just there to serve as a junction box, they have no function other than to facilitate the connection of the wires that are in them. So the wires in C need to remain connected together and the wires in D need to remain connected together. The same is true of the wires in the earth bar on the right.
You are fortunate that there is a backbox already in situ. Personally, I would make all of the connections with a set of new terminals in there, and then just bring one wire to each of the N, L, 1, 3 & 4 terminals to the Hive receiver backplate. As it's a metal box don't forget to make sure that it is properly earthed.
You don't mention a room thermostat, but any existing room thermostat should be decommissioned properly by removing it and linking the switching wires together to complete the circuit. This is done by bridging the two live switching wires after removing them from the terminals. To do this you will have to trace the thermostat cable back to its origin and find out where it is connected into the circuit. Or alternatively set the original thermostat it to its maximum setting and leave it in place, so that it doesn't override the Hive. If you need any help with this post back a details of the room thermostat (make / model) and the wires connected to it.