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Potterton EP3000 to Hive wiring help

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by Liamr, 25 Nov 2020.

  1. Liamr

    Liamr

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    7F3299B9-BA69-47A5-8A48-920EFD9A372C.jpeg 7F3299B9-BA69-47A5-8A48-920EFD9A372C.jpeg I currently have a Potterton ep3000 controller and want to change to a Hive! I am a keen amateur electrician so not a total idiot but some help would be appreciated please.

    The wires in c need to be connected still ( behind box)

    The wires in d need the same.

    N and L are additionally obvious.

    may confusion is where to put the wires in 1,3,4 and 5 from the Potterton over to the hive.
    Some knowledgable help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you in advance
     

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  3. ianmcd

    ianmcd

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    you have a Y plan system so plenty of diagrams on google to show you what to do
     
  4. Liamr

    Liamr

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    I do indeed have a y plan system. I have looked on google and it’s no clearer to me. Can anyone just have a look at the pics that I posted above and help out in relation to where on the hive thermostat each wire goes please? Thanks.
     
  5. Johnmdc

    Johnmdc

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    N-N
    L-L
    1-1
    3-3
    4-4
    The brown wire that is in 5 to L
    Then as you say the two wires in C in a connector and the two wires in D on another connector.
     
  6. ericmark

    ericmark

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    The potterton ep3000 is a programmer (time clock) the Hive is a programmer and thermostat combined, some where there is likely a thermostat which needs decommissioning. As to why the potterton had two feeds not sure, as said above L and 5 are one terminal with Hive, likely it is a simple loop between the two, however one can't assume.

    When I moved into this house I found central heating was supplied from three FCU and a 13A socket, which in turn was supplied from a fuse box and a consumer unit, although if wired correctly to start with combining 5 and L will likely be no problem, since we have no idea as to if wired correctly to start with, unless you can find a link L to 5, simply combining is not a good idea, as you don't know what you are combining.

    It may work combining 5 and L, but it could also cause back feeds to a fuse/MCB/RCBO and could cause a borrowed neutral and if fitted trip any RCD/RCBO, it needs investigating, you can't assume.
     
  7. stem

    stem

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    The drawings you posted show that EP connections are:

    [​IMG]

    and the Hive connections are

    [​IMG]

    As you can see they serve identical functions number for number, except that the EP has an extra terminal (5) that has a red wire linking it to the (L) terminal. The Hive already has this connection made for you internally, so you simply loose the link wire between the EP (L) and (5) The remaining brown wire in terminal 5 should be connected to L.

    The remaining wires transfer from the EP to a Dual Channel Hive like for like. N to N / L to L / 1 to 1 / 3 to 3 / 4 to 4 all as per @Johnmdc post.

    The other terminals A to D are just there to serve as a junction box, they have no function other than to facilitate the connection of the wires that are in them. So the wires in C need to remain connected together and the wires in D need to remain connected together. The same is true of the wires in the earth bar on the right.

    You are fortunate that there is a backbox already in situ. Personally, I would make all of the connections with a set of new terminals in there, and then just bring one wire to each of the N, L, 1, 3 & 4 terminals to the Hive receiver backplate. As it's a metal box don't forget to make sure that it is properly earthed.

    You don't mention a room thermostat, but any existing room thermostat should be decommissioned properly by removing it and linking the switching wires together to complete the circuit. This is done by bridging the two live switching wires after removing them from the terminals. To do this you will have to trace the thermostat cable back to its origin and find out where it is connected into the circuit. Or alternatively set the original thermostat it to its maximum setting and leave it in place, so that it doesn't override the Hive. If you need any help with this post back a details of the room thermostat (make / model) and the wires connected to it.
     
    Last edited: 26 Nov 2020
  8. Liamr

    Liamr

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    Thank you all for your help! I wired it all in last night and it works just fine. Your info made things much clearer. I did have a thermostat and I bridged this out.
    Thanks again- much appreciated
     
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